The last eighteen months have been very gratifying for Chef Samuel "Sam" Gorenstein: he became a father and opened Abbale Telavivian Kitchen in Miami Beach. His initial culinary steps were in his mom's kitchen in Barranquilla, Colombia, where he was born. The family moved to Miami when he was 14, and as a teenager worked at Les Halles in Coral Gables, Florida. The next stop was at Union Pacific, in New York City, under world-renowned chef Laurent Tourondel's, followed by Michelin-starred BLT Fish. Back in Miami, after a stint at Michael Schwartz at Michael's Genuine Food & Wine, he opened BLT Steak at The Betsy for Tourondel. In 2012, Gorenstein co-founded My Ceviche, and in 2015, Zuuk Mediterranean Kitchen. Last year, he and partner Omer Horev, founder of Pura Vida Miami, opened Abbale, located in a renovated bungalow in Miami Beach. He is thrilled to be back in the kitchen, cooking and experimenting with the flavors of Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean imbued with Colombian essence.
What lessons have you learned during Abbale's first year and what would you change if you were starting again?
Opening any restaurant is a learning experience but launching Abbale during a pandemic was a challenge of a different kind. There are always things to consider throughout the process of an opening, but honestly, I wouldn't change a thing!
How did you incorporate Barranquilla's color and rhythms into Abbale's menu?
To a certain extent, the menu at Abbale is colorful and folkloric. I feel it's representative of my birthplace and childhood in many ways, and the freshness of the food and the global ingredients we use all tie into that.
How does a Telavivian kitchen reflect the kitchen where you took your first steps?
Abbale reflects the foods I grew up around. My mom was always cooking; one of my earliest culinary memories is the smell of eggplant and pepper roasting. I was about seven years old when I started cooking with her and have never stopped.
What do Tel Aviv, Barranquilla, and Miami Beach have in common that we find in the restaurant?
All three are coastal cities with great weather, so fresh seafood is abundantly available. Ceviche is a staple on our dinner menu; that's tied to my upbringing in Barranquilla and Cartagena. Café culture is quite popular in all three; sitting on our terrace, listening to people speak different languages: English, Hebrew, French, Spanish, you could be in any of those cities.
Do you follow a daily routine in Abbale's kitchen?
Yes! I start my day with a macchiato; it gives me a chance to taste our coffee every morning, which is very important to me. We carry a blend of Colombian beans freshly roasted twice a week exclusively for Abbale. Then I check in with my team members and make my rounds tasting all the production in the kitchen. By then, it's time to begin service and welcome our guests.
Who are the three most influential persons in your culinary development?
Chef Laurent Tourondel gave me a shot at an early age and taught me valuable lessons that helped shape who I am today. Chef Michael Schwartz gave me an opportunity to learn about simplicity and embrace the local bounty. And finally, my grandfather sparked my interest in the kitchen at an early age.
Abbale pays homage to fathers: how has being a father changed you?
My priorities shifted once I became a father. Family comes first, above all else. Now, I am more focused than ever on building a solid brand and business for my children to have as an example.
What do you want your children to learn from you?
Honesty, perseverance, and kindness are three qualities that go together in life and business endeavors.
How do you balance family life with the life of a chef?
I focused on building a solid staff to spend time with my family while confident that the restaurant was running smoothly. I am incredibly appreciative of my wife, who has been my biggest supporter. Without her, nothing would have been possible.
How do you relax?
Family! We love staying home and spending time together. And cooking together at home is a must! Where do you feel most comfortable? In any corner of my restaurant!
Where do you see Abbale in five years?
I am grateful for the popularity of our restaurant and the appreciation of the cuisine, but I try not to get too far ahead of myself. I would love to see Abbale grow into a multi-unit brand. We are ready to take modern Israeli-Mediterranean food to different markets.
Do you listen to music while cooking, and what music do you prefer?
I love silence. After a busy-noisy shift, I enjoy having some time to think and reflect on the thoughts in my head. I appreciate music, but it's not as part of my work.
What irks you? What gives you joy?
Honestly, I am calm, and it's tough to get upset. My true joy is my family and having the ability to take care of their needs.
What must you always have with you?
I wish I could always carry finishing sea salt with me!
What does Father's Day mean to you?
Father's Day is a special occasion: a day to honor the bond I am building with my children and celebrate my father!
