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Road Trip to Central Arizona Wine Country

Just a Short Drive Provides a Wonderful Destination

A road trip to central Arizona wine country can include delightful surprises during the journey and at the destination. Descending into the immense Verde Valley is not the first, or only, wow moment one is likely to encounter, especially when the Cottonwood trees along the path of the Verde River, far below, are showing fall color.

Jerome, a historic former copper mining town at the far end of the valley, is not really on the way to anywhere. It’s nestled into the side of the steep encircling mountains. Its heyday was a hundred years ago, but upon driving up into this little town of approximately 450 people, it becomes clear that a new pinnacle of interest has taken hold—over a million tourists visit per year.

Amidst the laid-back ambiance of the town, the history, the views, and more, which you will uncover along your way, are scattered throughout several wine tasting rooms.

Caduceus Cellars & Merkin Vineyards, on Main Street, was one of the first to call this town home. Maynard and Jennifer Keenan are the hands-on hardworking partners behind their family-owned and -operated winery. They farm the grapes in their meticulously maintained vineyards in the valley below. Upon harvest, the grapes make the short trip up the hill to their small facility here, and a new vintage is brought to life. This yearly cycle has been repeating itself for over 15 years now—the first bottle, Primer Paso, was produced in 2004.

The Caduceus Cellars Tasting Room opened in 2009 (pause at the only stop sign in Jerome, turn right, and you’ve arrived). Housed below the lovingly restored Connor Hotel, built in 1898, are all of the Keenan’s Caduceus wines. Several of these bottles are open for tasting each day, along with a small plates menu to choose from. Also browse the gourmet food section, which features many local Arizona products, as well as a comprehensive conservas and cocktail bitters selection.

Next door to Caduceus, the Keenans opened the Puscifer store in 2014. This venue gracefully encompasses a plethora of ideas—a music store that, as well as specializing in new and used vinyl, is part museum/art installation and event space. House-made gelato is also available here. This retail store, envisioned by Jennifer, also houses Barbifer (a barber shop - appointments can be made online), and Four Eight Wineworks.

Four Eight Wineworks provides emerging winemakers with a metaphorical leg up by providing them access to the space, equipment, and resources they need to produce world-class high elevation Arizona wines. Four Eight Wineworks is an incubator for the driven on their quest not only to survive, but to thrive and make their mark in Arizona wine country and beyond.

After a day in Jerome, backtracking down the hill on the way home, you will discover Old Town Cottonwood. In this pedestrian-friendly old section of town are many more wine tasting rooms and restaurants, among them the Merkin Vineyards Osteria & Tasting Room. Opened in 2016, this handsome lunch and dinner spot features the Keenan’s Merkin Vineyards label Arizona wines, accompanied by daily hand-made pastas prepared with Arizona-grown and milled wheat (from Hayden Flour Mills in Queen Creek). The menu reflects the seasons’ offerings. The restaurant is open daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m., first-come, first-seated, no reservations.

The Merkin Osteria mission is to source everything possible from locally produced products. In light of that quest, portions of the Keenans’ vineyards are given over to vegetable gardens, hydroponic green houses, a mushroom growing operation, and orchards (Keenan also produces hard cider). There is even a worm farm.

Growing grapes and produce in the Arizona high desert? Yes, farming has been going on here since Native American times. Modernity has allowed us to conveniently forget that our food can and should, when possible, be sourced locally. Regional, sustainable, and a sense of place are the goal and the legacy envisioned by Maynard and Jennifer Keenan.

It is probably ill advised to try to squeeze too many things into one Arizona road trip, as there is a lot of ground to cover in this huge state. Take time to relax into each stop and discover what’s really going on under the surface. You can then plan your next visit or overnight stay accordingly.

Note: All of the Caduceus Cellars & Merkin Vineyards venues are strictly following current COVID-19 best practices. Call ahead for details.

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