When visitors come to New Mexico, they always talk about the unique multicultural cuisine that they find here. With Pueblo and Spanish influences, traditional New Mexico home-cooked meals reflect a heritage that is now featured in many of the posher restaurants in the region.
Some of the best cookbooks for these dishes are the ones with recipes that are contributed by the community, usually compiled by a local organization to raise funds. Often, they contain recipes that have been prepared by families for generations.
Recently, we came across a couple of cookbooks that had been passed down to Michael and Theresa Valerio, a senior couple who are originally from Las Vegas, NM. They had belonged to Michael’s mother. These cookbooks were published by the Public Service Company of New Mexico in the 1970s and were sold to provide utility grants to the underprivileged. The recipes originated from employees, families, and their neighbors, and were very popular...becoming a sort of archive of traditional New Mexico home cooking.
We talked to the Valerios about how these cookbooks became part of their holiday gatherings. Michael told us, “My mother used the cookbook. She would follow up and try out different recipes and compare them to her own way of doing things. The cookbook’s recipes are a very traditional cooking style up north.” Theresa added, “A lot of them were very basic, like the stews, the chilies, tortillas, and sopapillas. Those were all the basic ones, but then we would make some enchiladas and posole. My aunties would make tamales, my mom would make the biscochitos, the breads, and she would make empanadas. For dessert, we would have biscochitos and paletas.” Michael said, “Those traditions in northern New Mexico have been going on since the 1600s when the Spaniards settled in northern New Mexico.”
Theresa reflected on Christmases past, “Christmas Eve, everyone would come from the ranch to Las Vegas, and that's where we would gather before midnight mass, and they would come, and my mom would just put out the cookies, and they would bring out the tamales, and everybody would eat posole and just enjoy the meal. I have memories of gathering and eating together...getting together with the relatives and the cousins. The kids would enjoy their company, and then sometimes my mom's brothers or sisters would come from out of town, and everybody was joyful, and we would gather and eat and share all our different goodies and just enjoy each other's company. All the kids from the neighborhood would gather and get their little bags and go to all the houses and get treats from people...candy or cookies. It was like trick or treat. That was, of course, many years ago, when we were just kids. Those traditions have all gone away.”
We’ve featured a couple of recipes from a 1979 edition of the cookbook.
CHILE COLORADO
(Red Chile)
MODO DE PREPARAR CHILE COLORADO
(Preparation of Dried, Red Chile Pods)
The "ristras' which decorate New Mexico's countryside in the fall are strings of red chile sundrying for preservation and later use in sauces. The stems are always removed and the seeds may be removed for a more mild flavor.
All red chile recipes are prepared from native grown chile. Canned, red chile powder available in the "spice section" of grocery stores should not be substituted.
Temperature: 250°F.
Roasting Time: Approximately 10 minutes
Dried, red chile pods, stems removed
1 Rinse and dry chile pods. Remove seeds, if desired.
2 Place chile pods on a cookie sheet in a 250°F. oven for approximately 10 minutes. Turn chile pods several times to avoid scorching (the chile pods will turn a deeper red).
3 The toasted chile pods may be used for preparing red chile powder, * or chile concentrate.**
CHILE COLORADO CON TORTA
(Red Chile with Miniature Omelettes)
Yield: 4-6 servings
Temperature: Medium-High
Shortening
2 eggs
Frying Time: Approximately
5 minutes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 recipe Basic Red Chile Sauce*
1 tablespoon flour
1 Heat 1-inch of shortening in a heavy pan on medium-high heat.
2 Separate eggs and beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry. Beat in egg yolks, flour, and salt.
3 Drop mixture by teaspoonsful into hot shortening. Fry until golden. Drain on absorbent towels and add to chile sauce.
CHILE ARDIENTE
(Fire Eaters' Chile)
Yield: 2 cups
Temperature: Medium
Cooking Time: Approximately
20 minutes
Freezes Well
1/2 pound pork steak, cubed
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
6 tablespoons Red Chile Powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2-3 cups cold water
1 Brown pork in a medium-size skillet on medium heat. Drain and add garlic salt and salt.
2 Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in chile and cook for an additional minute.
3 Gradually add water and stir until mixture is slightly thickened.
CHILE COLORADO
(Basic Red Chile Sauce)
Yield: 2 cups
Cooking Time: 10-15 minutes
Temperature: Medium, Low
Freezes Well
2 tablespoons shortening
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
1/4-3/4 cup Red Chile Powder
Oregano (optional)
2 cups cold water
Comino (optional)
1 Heat shortening in a medium-size saucepan on medium heat. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute.
2 Add chile powder and cook for an additional minute.
3 Gradually add the water and stir form.
4. Add seasonings to sauce and simmer at low heat for 10-15 minutes.
◦ Red Chile Powder recipe on page 1. Varied amounts and varieties of chile will determine degree of hotness. One to two cups Chile Caribe may be substituted.
◦ *For a more mild flavor, tomato juice may be substituted.
NOTE: One pound of cooked beef or pork, ground, cubed, or shredded
may be added.
SALSA PEQUIN
(Red Chile Relish)
Yield: Approximately 2 cups
Freezes Well
2 cups canned tomatoes, *
1 teaspoon monosodium
drained and chopped
glutamate
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons dried chile
1 teaspoon garlic salt
pequin,**crushed
1. Combine all ingredients in a medium-size mixing bowl. Marinate at least 15 minutes before serving.
Two cups chopped, fresh tomatoes may be substituted.
BISCOCHITOS
(Anise Seed Cookies)
Baking time: 10-12 minutes
Freeze well
3 teaspoons
baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup brandy**
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons
anise seed
12 eggs, beaten
6 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 Cream lard, sugar, and anise seed in a large mixing bowl. Add eggs and beat well.
2 Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a large mixing bowl.
3 Alternately add flour and brandy to creamed mixture until stiff dough has been formed.
4 Knead dough slightly and pat or roll to a 1/4 inch thickness. Cut dough into desired shapes.
5 Combine sugar and cinnamon in a small mixing bowl. Dust the top of each cookie with a small amount of mixture.
6 Bake in a 350°F. oven for 10 minutes, or until cookies are lightly browned.
◦ Vegetable shortening may be used as a substitute.
◦ * Varied amounts may be used. Bourbon or sherry may be substituted.
NOTE: The fleur-de-lis shape is traditional for these cookies.
CHIMICHANGAS DE POLLO
(Chicken-Filled, Fried Tortillas)
Yield: 8 servings
Temperature: Medium-High,
Medium, Low
1 3 1/2-pound whole chicken
6 cups water
1 medium onion, studded with
2 whole cloves
2 stalks celery
2 large whole garlic cloves.
peeled
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons shortening
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large tomato, cored and diced
1 jalapeño chile*
1 teaspoon salt
Total Cooking Time:
Approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes
1/4 teaspoon crushed, leaf oregano
1/4 teaspoon crushed, leaf basil
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
8 White Flour Tortillas, warmed** Shortening
2 cups sour cream (optional)
1 cup Guacamole*** (optional)
2 cups grated, cheddar cheese (optional)
Shredded lettuce (optional)
Tomato wedges (optional)
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 Place the chicken, water, onion, celery. 2 garlic cloves, and bay leaf in a medium-size stewing pot. Cook chicken at medium heat for approximately 1 1/2 hours, or until the chicken is tender. Allow chicken to cool, remove meat from bones, and chop. (Broth from chicken may be reserved for a future use.)
2 Place shortening, sliced onion, and 1 minced garlic clove in a medium-size skillet and sauté mixture at medium heat until onion is tender. Add the chopped chicken, tomato, jalapeño chile. and remaining seasonings and simmer at low heat for 10-15 minutes.
3 Place approximately 1/2-cup of chicken mixture horizontally across the bottom half of each tortilla. Do not extend the mixture beyond 1 1/2 inches at the sides and bottom. Fold the sides in vier the filling and roll the tortilla jelly-roll style. Secure each rol
4 Heat 2-inches of shortening in a heavy pan at medium-high heat.
5 Fry each rolled tortilla in hot shortening until crisp and lightly browned. Drain on absorbent towels.
6 Assemble the chimichangas by placing each rolled tortilla on a plate and garnish with 1/4-cup of sour cream. 2 tablespoons of guacamole. 1/4-cup of cheddar cheese, lettuce, and tomato wedges.
◦ Varied amounts may be used. Chopped. Green chile may be substituted.
ENCHILADAS VERDES DE JOCOQUE
(Green Chile, Sour Cream Enchiladas)
Yield: 3 servings
Temperature: Medium-High,
Medium, 350°F.
3 cups chicken broth
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup cooked chicken
1 cup chopped, green chile*
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
Shortening
Heating Time: Approximately
15 minutes
9 Corn Tortillas *
2 cups grated, sharp cheddar cheese
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cups sour cream
1 Combine 1 cup of broth with the flour in a medium-size saucepan. Add the remaining broth and cook on medium heat until thick.
2 Stir the chicken, chile, and garlic salt into broth and set aside.
3 Heat 1/2-inch of shortening in a heavy pan at medium-high heat.
4 Quickly dip each tortilla into the shortening to soften. Drain on absorbent towels.
5 Combine 1 cup of cheese, onion, and sour cream in a medium-size mixing bowl.
6 Assemble the enchiladas by placing 1/4-cup of sauce on each dinner plate, followed by a tortilla, 1/4-cup of sauce, and 1/3-cup of sour cream mixture. Top with remaining sauce and cheese.
7 Place in a 350°F. oven for 15 minutes, or until cheese melts.
◦ Varied amounts may be used
NOTE: Traditionally, enchiladas are topped with a fried or poached egg.