A Scrumptious Sovereignty

All Hail the Biscuit Reigns Supreme

Article by Elizabeth A. Lowry

Photography by Elizabeth A. Lowry

Originally published in Loveland Lifestyle

Among the things in my life whose praises I’d sing, I never once thought of a biscuit. But that quickly changed after the first time I sunk my teeth into the soft, buttery, flaky, tender, chewy, golden brown biscuits from All Hail the Biscuit. 

I admit, it takes a bit of chutzpah to insinuate some sort of genuflection or courtesy should be given toward a signature dish right there in the naming. But when you start your restaurant as a pop-up and it constantly sells out (often within minutes)—what else could you possibly call it?

Offering amazing homemade biscuits and oh-so-much more, All Hail the Biscuit is the brainchild of Pickles and Bones BBQ owners, Nicole and Josh House. Almost everything is made from scratch, guided by their training as fine-dining chefs. From the quality dishes served at breakfast, brunch and lunch to the locally roasted coffee, the bright, inviting atmosphere to the smiling, knowledgeable staff members, everything at Milford’s AHTB receives an enthusiastic seal of approval. 

The Gluten that Binds 

The Houses met while working as chefs at The Oakroom in Louisville, KY. Once their first Cincinnati concept (the aforementioned P&B) took off, they decided to try their hand at another restaurant, one featuring foods reminiscent of those they grew up eating and learning how to make—cue the biscuits, gravy, jam and other traditional breakfast items. It was over breakfast and brunch that they learned not only what they wanted to pour their heart and soul into, but also what they felt they could elevate in the dining scene. 

“Josh and I worked evenings and weekends, and brunch was really the only time we had to go out,” Nicole explains. “It was a fun way to start the day—but we found the quality lacking, and we couldn’t find the level of scratch-cooking or attention to detail we appreciate in food. So, we decided to create it.”

All Hail the Pop Up

In 2019, the Houses held a series of insanely popular “All Hail the Biscuit” pop-ups at P&B. 

“The line would start hours before we opened and snake around the building,” Nicole remembers. “The first one sold out in 15 minutes and by the last, we figured we were on to something.”

Working with a broker and general contractor, the Houses renovated an abandoned Jiffy Lube over the course of a year, and AHTB officially opened its doors this past February.

“Milford is home—it had to be here,” Nicole says. “We love this community and wanted to offer something special to our friends and neighbors … it means a lot that we can support schools and nonprofits.” And support they do, often offering help to those in need—from Covid, tornados and floods to fundraisers, schools and nonprofits. They’ve even won the J. Patrick Toomey award, honoring their commitment to the community.

Making Biscuits—and Friends 

Almost everything at AHTB is made in-house, including: 

  • The strawberry jam (Nicole’s mom’s recipe)

  • The bacon (cured and smoked at P&B)

  • The biscuits (made by hand, every morning with King Arthur Flour) 

  • All of the dressings, condiments, buns, granola, etc. 

  • The sausage (a blend made by Avril Bleh in Cincinnati)

  • The goetta   

  • Their signature “Biscuit Blend” coffee (roasted by Urbana in Findlay Market) 

“We strive to give our guests the best—premium quality ingredients, and warm and genuine hospitality,” Nicole smiles. “Our team here is really special ... a group who love their jobs and support each other, and I think it shows. Everyone is welcome, and we can’t wait to make more friends here.”  

In addition to their rotating, seasonal features, AHTB offers their entire menu for carryout, and a specialized catering menu with options for both buffet-style and individual box brunches. | 877 State Route 28, Milford | 513.340.4811 

Bites from a Biscuit Backer
Confession—I was one of those early AHTB enthusiasts, standing in queue at daybreak, hoping to get my biscuit fix before that day’s pop-up portion ran out. Now, as a true-blue fan of their robin-egg-blue brick-and-mortar, I’m letting you in on my secrets, err, faves. 

Of course, there are two mainstays, both a tribute to Nicole’s father—the Arlan Walker (classic combo elevated by biscuit, gravy and jam), and the biscuit and gravy (“That dish alone was the springboard for the whole restaurant,” she admits).

There’s more. I’m constantly amazed by the Biscuit Benedict—it’s all in the hollandaise, baby. I once asked Nicole how hard it was to hold this French mother sauce—the look she gave me was answer enough. And the pancakes! Lemon and blueberry perfection (you must order at least one). Also, donuts. Powder-sugared, lemon-sauced biscuit donuts—feel free not to share. 

But my staple is the Fried Chicken Biscuit (cousin to the Spicy Chick Sammy). Perfectly juicy, crispy chicken (dredged in biscuit crumbs!), sawmill gravy, and the most surprising but heavenly side-spread—pepper jelly. Together, they’re a perfect-bite work of culinary art. Ready to order?              - Steph Meinberg


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