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Bruin Coffee & Biscuits with "crew".

Featured Article

Before Durango Wakes

Inside Durango’s earliest coffee rituals.

Article by Kalista Pena

Photography by Andy Wingerd & Bonnie Boggiano

Originally published in Durango City Lifestyle

Long before most of Durango reaches for its first cup of coffee, lights flicker on inside cafés and in a trailer on North Main Avenue. Espresso machines warm, grinders hum, and ovens heat as the aroma of coffee replaces the night's quiet.

Customers rarely see the first espresso calibrated or the morning rush taking shape. For those who make Durango’s coffee, the day begins well before the doors and service windows open.

According to the International Coffee Organization (ICO), the world consumes approximately 2.25 billion cups of coffee every day.

For Bruin Coffee & Biscuits, Still Life Coffee & Botanicals, and Blue Wing Coffee, mornings unfold differently, yet they share a purpose: starting someone else’s day.

For Jake, who oversees Bruin’s Durango operation, work begins hours before the trailer opens. At 4 a.m., the central kitchen crew in Pagosa Springs prepares biscuits, donuts, and syrups that will head west that morning.

“That early rhythm is the heartbeat of the entire operation,” Jake says.

By 6:30 a.m., the delivery has arrived at the trailer. The Durango crew warms the speed oven, stocks ingredients, and starts the drip coffee. The crew prepares sandwich components in advance, though they assemble each stuffed biscuit to order.

Soon, teachers, parents, first responders, and workers line up beside customers bound for the trails and mountains. Their days are beginning; Bruin’s crew is already hours into its own.

Across town, the morning takes shape at Still Life Coffee & Botanicals, the plant-filled café owned by mother-and-daughter Lorie and Haley Wilhelmsen.

For baristas Emily and Chloe, opening means moving through essential tasks. Hot water fills the pots, the espresso machine comes to life, and they pull the first test shots to adjust the grind before serving customers.

While one focuses on coffee, the other monitors the ovens and prepares baked goods. The register is stocked, pastries are sliced, and ingredients are placed within reach before the pace quickens.

For a little while, the café belongs to those preparing it, with the greenery around the counter deepening the stillness. Then regulars arrive, turning the tucked-away shop into a neighborhood gathering place. Espresso fills the waiting cups, and pastries disappear from the counter.

At Blue Wing Coffee in the historic Smiley Building, a weekday opening shift begins around 6:20 a.m., 40 minutes before the doors open. On weekends, it begins an hour later.

The first task is measuring beans for the espresso hoppers and brewing drip coffee. Blue Wing roasts its beans in-house and serves only single-origin coffees. Its Papua New Guinea house beans are checked each morning to ensure they have rested properly after roasting.

For Bonnie, coffee combines precision and creativity. Her engineering background draws her to how the process shapes each agricultural ingredient. Coffee is also shaped by presentation, latte art, and the interaction surrounding each order.

“It is an art you can consume,” Bonnie says. “It’s everything surrounding the coffee as well.”

Before the weekday rush arrives around 8 or 8:30 a.m., Blue Wing experiences what Bonnie calls “that nice calm before the storm.” Then the room fills with people getting ready for work, and the quiet café takes on the city's energy.

Customers see a finished cup, a stocked pastry case, and a crew ready to greet them. They do not see the darkened rooms, warming ovens, measured beans, and preparations that came before.

While Durango slept, coffee brewed and practiced hands prepared for the rush. By the time the city woke, the people behind its morning rituals were already well into their day.