Las Vegas has long evolved from its all-you-can-eat budget beginnings into one of the most dynamic dining destinations in the country. Today, the city is a playground for culinary heavyweights and rising stars: where Michelin-recognized chefs, global-inspired menus and boundary-pushing concepts converge under neon lights.
My last getaway to Las Vegas followed a road trip through the stillness of Death Valley, trading desert silence for sparkly Sin City. The 2-hour drive out of the hottest, driest and lowest-elevation national parks in North America capped off hiking and rejuvenation at The Inn at Death Valley. As the mountains loomed in all directions, some capped with snow, we slid through the rugged rural town of Pahrump before cruising by miles of Joshua trees in the Mojave Desert. Just a couple hours later, the cool desert air and starry skies were replaced by traffic, signs touting the latest greatest show and the glitz of jam-packed theme-driven hotels with blaring lights.
When we arrived at Conrad Las Vegas at Resorts World, we went straight to the room, courtesy of advanced online check-in and a digital room key that made arrival easy and discreet. The property features three Hilton brands – Las Vegas Hilton, Conrad Las Vegas and Crockfords Las Vegas – featuring entertainment, theatre, shopping, spa and world-class dining.
From the 58th floor, a 5.5-acre pool oasis, with seven distinct pool options, beckoned 52 floors below. But after the drive, we weren’t leaving the comfort of the suite, until our first reservation through a stealthy entrance to a secret speakeasy off the casino lobby.
On a shelf in the fake Japanese toy storefront, a push of the secret trinket grants entry to Here Kitty Kitty Vice Den. The swanky lounge serves up Singaporean flair with an unforgettable menu of cocktails —some that glow in the dark, others with Matcha and Mezcal, and several with surprises like the Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey Espresso Martini with Reese’s Pieces bits. A Beertails menu – infused spirits with beer – offers uncanny concoctions not found anywhere else.
Just a few feet away, one-year-old Stubborn Seed features a dimly-lit, stylish and moody restaurant inspired by prior success in Miami and led by Jeremy Ford, a Top Chef winner with Michelin-starred pedigree. Decked in red leather banquettes, dramatic glass chandeliers, a Big Wave graffiti art piece and sexy art murals, it’s a celebration of food with a glass-fronted kitchen inviting guests to admire the chefs in action.
While the restaurant specializes in multi-course tasting menus with playful options, we chose to select our own dishes, starting with plump oysters from Washington state with eyedropper hot sauce, paired with Moet bubbly and an order of Cacio e Pepe Cheesy puffs that tasted like French gougères.
We were blown away by the outstanding preparation of the wood-fired Australian Wagyu Skirt Steak, with tempura mushrooms and skillet of truffle patatas bravas, doused in shaved parmesan. The Ember Grilled Branzino with brown butter piccata arrived with colorful flowers and tomatoes in a sinful sauce. This was only the start of an all-star roster of global culinary talent in Las Vegas.
To keep the night going, we sipped wine and rare spirits at the top of the Conrad Hotel above the shining Las Vegas strip, at Alle Lounge on 66. The Conrad’s stunning panoramic space also hosts the quiet and private-feeling continental breakfast and evening Social Hour during the day, offering a sense of calm and stability above the city’s chaos.
On night two, the Wynn Las Vegas was calling from a half mile away for an unforgettable dinner followed by a high-tech immersive 360-degree theater show called “Awakening,” the Wynn’s mesmerizing visual experience with wild costumes, laser lights, disappearing characters and acrobatic stunts like ballet atop a dancer’s head.
Dinner at PISCES at the Wynn is everything you want Las Vegas to be, starting with the escalator descent to the decadent Bar Parasol and the Lake of Dreams waterfall and Mediterranean fantasy. Just a year old, the theatrical space, with mosaic floors, glamorous hand-blown Italian globe lighting and copper mirrored portholes, boasts a seafood bar display and views of a cascading 45-foot waterfall that morphs into a color-changing light and sound show with moving animatronic frog and emojis.
Choose from a high-end menu of fresh fish, caviar and raw bar items inspired by the Mediterranean coast. Guest favorites include dry-aged fish, a two-tiered seafood tower, seafood paella, crab cigars and tableside flambe salt-baked branzino. The flavors of the Dover Sole, Prawns and King Crab Alla Vodka pasta are exceptional. A tasty Sancerre or Greek Assyrtiko are perfect complements to decadent starters like Bluefin Sashimi or Caviar and Jamon Iberico Croquetas topped with gold leaf. A night here is Oh La La Las Vegas Under the Sea!
The Wynn never disappoints, with sushi-led Mizumi recently proving to be one of the Top 10 meals of my life. This time, for night three, I traded Japanese culinary artistry for the Wynn’s new hard-earned reservation ticket: Sartiano’s Italian Steakhouse. On the terrace, the coveted tables overlook the golf course and Sphere in the distance. Don’t miss the decadent Caviar Cannoli bites, Fluke Ceviche and luscious light meatballs.
Ordering a surf-and-turf medley should be on your indulgent itinerary: Medium-rare Ribeye topped with Truffle Short Rib and Egg Yolk Raviolo paired with a plate of loaded lobster Bucatini with a spice kick.
Here at Sartiano’s watch couples and groups “ooh” and “aah” over 40-ounce dry-aged Bistecca alla Fiorentina, sliced tableside, and creamy fettucine tossed and twirled on a rolling cart, swimming in springtime asparagus among shaved “blankets” of prosciutto, replacing truffles for the season. For the ultimate dessert finale, Sartiano’s Butterscotch Budino is a must. Who’s counting calories at this point?
Gastro-entertainment may be the best reason to visit Las Vegas, with compelling dining options worthy of any celebration, featuring great food staged as spectacle. The buffet era is long gone. What's replaced it is a town where the culinary journey is absolutely worth the trip.