Determination is a strong force. We have two options when we have a dream: pursue it or forget about it. But everything big started with something small, someone didn’t give up on.
Mills Stovall was born and raised in Texas. He grew up hunting, fishing, enjoying the countryside and butchery in general. He studied performance art and opera at Centenary College of Louisiana while working in the food industry. “I knew that if I worked in a kitchen, I’d be able to have a meal. I was a broke student,” he shares. But the financial circumstances didn’t stop him; he fought even harder to reach his goals.
Unexpectedly, what was supposed to be a means toward his education became the new finish line. He enjoyed the dynamics of cooking so much that he left the arts to attend the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. There, he fell in love with restaurants, cuisine, and being creative with fresh ingredients. He learned from some of the best cooks in the city and then pursued a career as a chef. In ‘99, after being burnt out from working in kitchens, he moved to the Big Island to dedicate himself to ranching and farming, and spent about ten years as the Executive Chef for Roaring Lion Ranch.
He traveled through the mainland, Spain, and Japan, noticing butcher shops in every small community. When his first daughter was born, he dreamed about opening a restaurant, but his wife, Kamalei, disagreed. The last butchery in Waimea, Kamuela Meats, had closed in the 80s, so Mills and Kamalei settled to open a butcher shop instead. “I thank my wife. She has been the best supporter a husband could have. I have a lot of love and respect for how she allowed me to pursue my dream,” he says.
In 2016, Mills established Waimea Butcher Shop, always keeping the desire for a restaurant in mind. The business developed consistently, gaining a faithful clientele in the Paniolo town. Soon, he understood that people didn’t want just a piece of meat that looked good on a plate; they longed for locally sourced, quality, grass-fed beef that looked good and tasted even better. He wondered if this was the direction he wanted his business to take.
He shared his thoughts with chef friends, who thought achieving it was impossible. Nevertheless, Mills went ahead and tried it for a couple of months. Eight years later, he proudly shares that it was the best decision for his business, the community, and the land.
“Everything we source in the butcher shop is locally sourced from Hawai’i Island only. We are a whole animal butcher shop; you'll see things you don't find in grocery stores. We love introducing people to all cuts of the animal instead of just the prime cuts you see in other places,” he shares.
His determination came from the desire to support the local economy while showcasing quality food. “We could keep millions of dollars here on the island by buying local products. We have the best beef, pork, chicken, and lamb in the world. People from the mainland are coming to Hawai’i for the food scene; they want to try Big Island beef,” says Mills.
Despite Big Island’s enticing cuisine, many restaurants source meat from other locations to lower costs. However, as every restaurant and hotel offers some kind of burger, Mills wants to encourage everybody to have a local meat option. That wouldn’t mean excluding meat from other sources; a small percentage of the menu supporting local farmers and ranchers would suffice to impact the Big Island financially. “It feels a lot better to support the local economy than to have a little bit of extra money,” Mills says.
Since it opened, Waimea Butcher Shop has partnered with over three hundred small farms and ranches, including Hawaiian Hogs, Parker Ranch, and Punachicks Farm. “What separates us from Foodland or Costco is that we're all cooks, chefs and butchers here. We’re not interested in selling you the most expensive piece of meat in the meat case. I would much rather sell a customer a pound of ground beef every week than have somebody coming in four times a year for a super-expensive steak,” Mills shares.
In mid-August, Mills’ dream finally came to fruition. Opened from 10 AM to 9 PM, Tuesdays through Saturdays, the restaurant offers mouthwatering selections that range from tender smoked brisket to flavorful banh mi. The lunch and dinner options are subject to availability to stay fresh — and there are always unlisted menu items worth checking. Just ask the staff team. But if you want to enjoy their delicacies at home or a private event, Waimea Butcher Shop also has a catering menu.
In the future, Mills would like to expand the business to other islands and further the mission of offering local and sustainable meats. After all, dreaming took him this far and will take him even further.
WaimeaButcherShop.com.
I thank my wife. She has been the best supporter a husband could have — Mills Stovall, Waimea Butcher's owner.
Everything we source in the butcher shop is locally sourced from Hawai’i Island only. We are a whole animal butcher shop.