All those years, all those suits of mine. There was the charcoal number with natural shoulders and narrow lapels, for that Ivy League look (as close to the Ivy League as I ever got). That gave way to more daring corduroy and seersucker double-breasted styles. Next up, chalk stripes on a three-piece, pure Wall Street (never got there, either). And so on, down to my current favorite, a simple navy two-piece.
Those suits marked the changes in my own closet. But for a professional’s take on styles that have come and gone – and come back again – I talked with Billy Wermerskirchen, third-generation proprietor of Bill’s Toggery, the Shakopee institution founded by his grandfather in 1931.
“Over the past few years, suits have gone from loose-fitting, with pleats and big shoulders, to a slimmer look, though that isn’t for everyone,” says Billy, whose lines at the Toggery include Hart Schaffner Marx, Jack Victor, and the shop’s own custom work. “But we’re starting to see a return to looser styles, and single-pleated pants are coming back. Most men are still looking for something fitted, but we can achieve both looks.”
Double-breasted suits? “They’re on the verge of a comeback,” Billy notes. “And some men still like cuffs, which were originally designed to weigh down the leg of the pants. They’re not as popular with a slimmer pants profile, although they’re synonymous with pleats.”
There’s a growing trend for wearing suits without a tie, which raises the question of whether there are certain styles that work better with the open-collar look. Billy doesn’t think so, remarking that “any suit can be worn without a tie.” But if you’re not wearing one, he suggests, “wear a nice pocket square instead,” to add a note of sportiness. Footwear, too, can take the look in different directions, with options such as white-soled shoes, or dress sneakers. “You can have a lot of fun dressing a suit up or down,” says Billy.
As for who’s driving the men’s fashion conversation these days, Billy suggests taking a look at what sports figures are wearing when they step out of uniform. “Guys from the NFL, NHL, and Major League Baseball, and sports commentators, dress up to appear on TV. Men watch, and get fashion ideas.”
When it’s time to really get serious, the custom shop at Bill’s Toggery is ready to handle whatever style suits a gentleman’s taste. With a broad selection of fabrics, and a full-time tailor on staff, the shop can expertly fit men in all shapes and sizes. “The shop works with clients ranging from executives to wedding parties – we outfit grooms and groomsmen, and we’ve been making a lot of tuxedos,” says Billy. “More and more men are buying their wedding outfits. You get a lot of value from buying a suit or tux for a wedding, rather than renting.” Thinking of having a suit or tux custom made? Billy advises giving the shop about six weeks for first fittings to finished product. It can be done in three to four weeks, “but we don’t like to take less time than that.”
Bill’s Toggery, of course, is about a lot more than suits. Billy reminds clients that “sportswear is still a big part of our business.” The Toggery’s extensive inventory includes shirts, casual slacks, sport jackets, sweaters, pullovers, accessories and more, from upscale brands like Johnnie-O and 7Diamond. For dress shirts, look for carefully crafted offerings from David Donahue. Bugatchi is known for its contemporary-styled shirts in an eight-way stretch mercerized cotton, available in a range of contemporary styles. Jeans, too, get special attention, with the 34 Heritage line crafted from a denim fabric that’s a cut above the ordinary, woven for superior fit and wear qualities.
In a footwear department strong in both dress and casual styles, “we carry Johnston & Murphy, Florsheim, and, at the higher end, Martin Dingman,” says Billy. A recent addition to the Toggery shelves is the line of shoes, sandals, and slippers by Hawaii-based OluKai. Both Martin Dingman and OluKai offer a wide selection of those suit-sprucing white-soled dress sneakers Billy mentioned above. “Our shoe collection,” he reminds clients, “is a nice complement to our clothing lines.”
Getting back to my own closet – where several of those suits I wore years ago still linger, on hangers from long-gone haberdashers – I was glad to hear about past styles making a reappearance. Maybe I’ll take one of those suits out … though I’d probably have to have it taken out. On second thought, it might be time for a visit to Bill’s Toggery.
BillsToggery.com
With a broad selection of fabrics, and a full-time tailor on staff, the shop can expertly fit men in all shapes and sizes.
“More and more men are buying their wedding outfits. You get a lot of value from buying a suit or tux for a wedding, rather than renting.”