When Kevin Champlin was 13 years old, he entered a loaf of challah bread in the Pierce County Fair. The judges would have been amazed enough to discover any example of traditional Jewish cuisine in Ellsworth, Wisconsin. That the child’s skill surpassed that of many professional bakers surprised them even more.
Why challah, of all things? It was simply Kevin’s stab at creating something out of the ordinary.
Kevin proceeded to spend decades working for restaurants, corporate cafeterias, golf courses and in-flight catering services. He attended culinary school at Dakota County Technical College and earned a degree in accounting in the meantime. Whether he was frying eggs at Shoney’s, slicing prime rib at Treasure Island, or attempting to change public perception of airplane food for the better, it was all in service of the big dream: opening a restaurant of his very own, where he could defy the ordinary every day.
That dream came to fruition last year. Kevin named it Brazin Public House: a portmanteau combining his and his sons’ names (Braden, Zach and Kevin).
Committed journalist that I am, I brought my wife to Brazin for the best kind of dinner there is: tax deductible. I ordered the “Mushrooms Etc.” burger, fully expecting something delicious but by no means prepared for the best burger I had ever eaten.
I know what you’re thinking: It behooves me to wax poetically about a client’s burger. I’ll remind you that I am a committed journalist, whose praise is based purely on objective reality. I do not violate my lofty professional standards one iota when I claim that the Mushrooms Etc. should be painted on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.
I begged Kevin to explain how he’d done it. “I just know what works,” said the chef. “You can learn how to cook in a professional kitchen. But true creativity? Maybe that can be taught as well, but for me, it’s always been there. It’s why I unwind after a long shift by going home and cooking some more.”
Kevin’s originality shines in every dish on Brazin’s menu, which changes nearly as often as I return to order from it. It’s not a steak sandwich. It’s marinated carne asada flank with caramelized onions, chimichurri and provolone on a rosemary ciabatta roll. It’s not a fish taco. It’s a sunny taco, with guacamole, pico de gallo, and a chipotle crema so divine that no other restaurant should be allowed to have “chipotle” in its name. Even the wedge salad bucks convention. Instead of the usual ship-sinker, it’s made with fresh artisan romaine and dressed up with Mediterranean delicacies.
“I enjoy reinventing flavors Minnesotans are already accustomed to,” said Kevin. “That might mean putting a Southwest or European twist on a classic, or adding spicy flair to a sauce – without transgressing against the ‘Minnesota nice’ palate, of course. If I find a way to make a bold statement that defies our diners’ expectations, then there’s a good chance one of our menu items will revolve around that discovery.”
There’s always something amazin’ at Brazin. Visit the cozy fireplace-warmed dining room between 3 and 5pm any day except Sunday for happy hour, when all shareables are 20 percent off and libations are sharply discounted. Visit between 9 and 11am on Friday (or 9am and 2pm on the weekend) for brunch, which features Benedicts, omelets, “syrupy things” and other deliciousnesses that will make you glad you skipped breakfast. Visit during Burger Monday, Taco Tuesday, Wing It Wednesday, Half-Price Wine Thursday, or Friday or Saturday when Kevin showcases a truly remarkable special.
You could invent any flashy gimmick for a restaurant. Brazin’s is simple: a master chef, doing whatever he wants, and who only wants to astonish his patrons. Dine at 6399 City W Parkway in Eden Prairie, or order online at brazinpublichouse.com.