The most recent iteration of the resort’s signature oceanfront restaurant marks the third phase of its evolution over nearly 30 years.
Debuting as the casually elegant Pahui‘a restaurant when the resort opened in 1996, it underwent a significant design and menu metamorphosis in 2012 re-emerging as ULU + Sushi. Now with the unveiling of a meticulously reinvented space, including contemporary furnishings, light fixtures and expanded lanai and lounge seating, it also has been re-branded as simply ULU.
“With the popularity of sushi continuing to grow, comprising as much as 50 percent of our dinner sales, and with our long-time veteran Sushi Chef Nuri Piccio more than ready to take on more challenges, a pivotal decision was made,” Richard Polhemus, Senior Executive Chef-Hawai’i, says.
The decision? Opening a new restaurant, Noio, completely dedicated to fine Japanese cuisine in the second-story space directly above ULU in December with Chef Nuri at the helm. Prior to taking the reins there, he served eight years as a sushi chef at ULU, continuously refining his skills and gaining familiarity with the preferred tastes of hotel guests and homeowners at the luxury residential resort.
Noio is one of just three restaurants on Hawai’i Island offering traditional omakase dinners – the only one on the Kona Coast – along with a diverse selection of the highest quality fish sourced primarily from Japan.
Today, with its breathtaking Pacific views, ULU maintains a true sense of place, continuing to focus on freshly caught seafood from surrounding ocean waters as well as the resort’s fishponds where oysters and shrimp are cultivated.
“Our new menu, a collaboration between ULU’s Chef de Cuisine Chris Damskey and me, does offer four different sushi rolls, while a selection of crudo – Kanpachi, Sea Bream, Tuna Toro Tartare and Hokkaido Scallop, as well as reserve caviar options (Domestic Royal, Kaluga Hybrid and Osetra) make up the space nigiri sushi and sashimi previously occupied,” Chef Richard says.
Guests choose their preferred caviar and preparation style: traditional Bellinis, hand-cut Noodles with Shio Kombu Butter and Chives, or “Oysters & Pearls” with Cucumber Dashi, he says.
“The new menu items showcase the same locally grown Hawai’i Island ingredients as those from the previous menu. In fact, 75 percent of our ingredients are sourced from 160 farms island-wide,” Chef Richard says.
He is committed to building new relationships with local farmers and purveyors while maintaining those partnerships created by Chef Chris when he was tapped by the resort to open ULU + Sushi as chef de cuisine – a post he held until 2017 when he set off for more culinary adventures.
“I was blessed to pull inspiration from many chefs over the years, including Jean Georges Vongerichten and Alan Wong,” Chef Chris says.
“Among the things I learned from Chef Jean Georges was the importance of honoring the place, its culture, and then imparting that sense of place in the meals you present. Traveling, meeting with farmers, fisherman and ranchers also helped develop a true appreciation of where our food comes from,” he says.
He also credits time working beside Chef Alan Wong at his Maui restaurant, Amasia, for re-enforcing the importance of always “foraging the best and freshest ingredients that are local to the place.”
“Chef Alan is the unofficial godfather of Hawai’i regional cuisine. He opened doors for me to people I would not have met otherwise, which led to many of the partnerships we have now,” Chef Chris says.
Returning to Four Seasons Hualalai in October 2024, he admits to arriving a little late to the party, as renovations and menu planning were already well underway at ULU.
“I like to work in collaboration with others, I truly believe everyone on the team brings something to the table. I was happy to have the chance to massage the new menu a bit with Chef Richard when I finally did arrive,” he says. “We plan to tweak it quarterly, focusing on the very best ingredients available here at the time.”
Some menu items, however, will always remain in place – among them customer favorite Tableside Poke. “If we were ever to take that off the menu, our long-time, loyal customers would chase me down with pitchforks,” Chef Chris says.
The beloved dish, prepared with flair tableside, features a choice of Local Bigeye Ahi, Japanese Bluefin Tuna, Kona Kanpachi, or order it “Hapa” (half and half) style with Bigeye Ahi and Kanpachi.
Among the updated menu highlights are the Miso King Crab Leg roasted with Yazu Koshu Miso Butter and Charred Lemon; Ahi Wellington featuring Ali‘i Mushrooms, Lūʻau Leaf and Foie Gras Bordelaise; and Big Island Abalone “Rockefeller” with Pork Guanciale, Kuleana Rum, Creamy Spinach and Fennel Pollen Crust. The latter two were featured at a special dinner at New York’s James Beard House in November.
While Chef Richard oversees operations, menus and culinary teams at all resort restaurants, banquets and in-room service, Chef Chris is charged with daily oversight of the ULU kitchen and staff. Promoted from executive chef – a post he held since 2020 – to senior executive chef-Hawai’i early this year, Chef Richard now is responsible for culinary operations at the Four Seasons properties on O’ahu and Maui as well. Even with his expanded duties, he says his feet are firmly grounded at Hualalai 100 percent of the time.
Rounding out the team is Executive Pastry Chef Kalani Garcia, a Maui native who is part artistic genius and part scientific brainiac.
“As a pastry chef, it’s critical to know exactly how everything works and to understand the science behind it. Knowing and understanding that paves the road to consistency,” he says.
It’s something he learned at an early age. The youngest of five siblings, Kalani watched his mother Lynn bake for family gatherings, carefully selecting ingredients and then mixing them together with perfect precision.
Mentors in his culinary journey include Chef Beverly Gannon, who at age 19 gave him his first job at her award-winning Haile Maile General Store in upcountry Maui; and Jean Luc Dahl, the pastry chef at Four Seasons Las Vegas.
“Haile Maile was the perfect starting point for me, owner/chef Chef Beverly and family were really a second family to me, and training with her led to my first post with Four Seasons at its Wailea location on Maui,” Chef Kalani says.
Another opportunity led him to trade tranquil island life for the glitz and glam of Las Vegas, where Chef Jean Luc took him under his wing, furthering his training and honing his skills.
He returned to the islands, joining Four Seasons Hualalai’s culinary team as assistant pastry chef in 2013 and was named executive pastry chef in 2015. Today, mirroring his savory chef colleagues, his desserts feature the best Hawai’i has to offer: locally cultivated chocolate, macadamia nuts, lilikoi, pineapple, calamansi limes, starfruit and ohi‘a honey.
His not-to-be-missed desserts include Roasted Pineapple Parfait with Crispy Lilikoi Meringue and Myer Lemon Cremeux, and the Ohi ‘a Honey Mousse Cake featuring Mamaki Sponge Cake, Sudachi Curd and Ohi‘a Honey Cremeux.
They deliver a perfect ending to an extraordinary evening at both ULU and Noio.
FourSeasonsResortHualalai.com