In every neighborhood, as businesses come and go, others remain and become anchors that bond neighbors to each other and connect the community to a larger purpose, earning a place in history as more than the sum of the products it sells. Even when what they sell is chili.
In one shining example is Ben’s Chili Bowl. Patrons who enter the historical eatery's doors are surrounded by the feeling that there is more to the place than what’s on the menu.
This story begins in 1910.
The original Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street, in Northwest DC, is in a building that was once a silent movie house in 1910. It later became a pool hall before newlyweds Ben and Virginia Ali transformed it into Ben’s Chili Bowl in 1958.
At that time, the neighborhood was known as Black Broadway. After performing at U Street clubs, jazz legends including Duke Ellington and Nat King Cole would grab a bite at Ben’s Chili Bowl.
The 1968 riots following the death of Martin Luther King, Jr., a regular Ben’s guest, devastated the area. “But Ben’s was given special privileges to stay open during the curfew," says Vida Ali, daughter-in-law to Ben and Virginia, and head of the company’s PR and marketing. "Mom and Pop fed activists, protestors, police officers, and firefighters. We were known as the gathering place, where all walks could come together and discuss their points of view in a warm and safe environment.”
Across the street from Ben’s, the construction of the U Street Metro station in 1991 disrupted the area again and many more businesses closed. But not Ben’s. The Chili Bowl stayed open and fed construction workers. Ben’s is one of three businesses in the area that survived the 1968 riots and the construction of the Metro's Green Line.
From the early 1990s, the area saw a gradual revitalization, and since then, Ben’s has continued to mark milestones. In 1999, the city renamed the alley next to The Chili Bowl, Ben Ali Way.
In 2004, Ben won the James Beard Award for the Best American Classic Restaurant. In 2009, President Obama joined many other celebrities and dignitaries who have visited Ben’s. Later in 2009, Ben passed away at the age of 82.
By then, Ben and Virginia had mostly retired and left the restaurant in the hands of their sons, Kamal and Nizam. Today, Kamal manages the U Street location and the company’s retail division. Nizam oversees finance and technology. The Ali's eldest son, Sage, manages the H Street location and oversees franchising. Sonya Ali, who is married to Kamal, heads up the company’s e-commerce and catering divisions. Vida is married to Sage. A trio of grandchildren help out when they’re not in school.
“We are a very hardworking family,” says Sonya. “At 87, Virginia still comes down several days a week. She’ll even scrape the grill.”
An employee – or team member, as they’re called – known as Peaches has been on board for more than 40 years. At least a few others have been there more than 10 years and plenty more have been with Ben’s for at least a decade.
There are seven locations of Ben’s Chili Bowl, including one at Reagan National Airport, the Horseshoe Casino in Baltimore, Nationals Park and, most recently, the DC Convention Center. Some of their products are available at Costco and others can be ordered online (at HalfSmokes.com) and shipped across the country.
Ben’s serves turkey chili, chili con carne and vegan chili but, Vida says, “most regular guests come for the original half smokes – a sausage topped with mustard, onion and a spicy chili sauce – and our chili cheese burgers. Our burgers are 100 percent fresh Angus beef with no steroids, no hormones and no antibiotics.” The menu also includes salads, sides and handspun shakes.
Sonya says the team prides themselves on the belief that everyone “comes in as a guest and leaves as family. We talk to everyone. We never miss an opportunity to engage our guests,” she says.
In addition to President Obama, Ben’s other famous guests have included Kevin Hart, Jimmy Fallon, George Bush, Kevin Durant, Serena Williams, Chaka Khan, Jessie Jackson, Anthony Bourdain and many others.
“After a concert, Bruno Mars just popped in,” Sonya recalls, as she explains of their famous visitors, “100 percent they know our history and know it’s Black owned. We have people who, even before they became famous, were fans of ours, like Dave Chappelle and Steve Harvey.”
Even Vice President Kamala Harris gave Ben’s a shoutout when, early in the pandemic, she tweeted her surprise that Ben’s hadn’t received their allotment of the paycheck protection program funds. The Vice President’s alma mater Howard University is a half mile away from Ben’s.
An enormous mural at the U Street location commemorates some of the restaurant’s famous visitors and other inspirational figures including the Obamas, plus Harriet Tubman, Muhammad Ali, Roberta Flack, Prince, Eleanor Holmes Norton and more.
Working at Ben's can be hectic but, Sonya says, “That keeps us energized and jazzed.” She adds, “We have great R&B music all the time.” The restaurant’s juke box is made in the classic old style of the restaurant’s early days. “Our guests and team members break out in dance and song. It’s phenomenal,” she says.
Giving back to the community has always been important to Ben’s. The Ben’s Chili Bowl Foundation gives to local non-profits. To donate, or for more info, visit BensChiliBowlFoundation.org.
Reflecting on the restaurant’s history, Virginia says, “We are part of the community. We’ve always been here to help people and the people have always been supportive of us. We’re a place for connecting with each other. The most important thing of all: We have the love and respect of the community.”