San Antonio is one of my favorite cities—a worthy destination any time of the year—but visiting during the Día de los Muertos celebrations provides a truly spirited adventure.
The festival, honoring the lives and legacies of ancestors, is centuries old—dating back to the ancient Aztecs. With its roots in Mexico, the traditions have spread wherever settlement has taken its descendants. San Antonio, with its large Mexican-American population, hosts one of the largest observances in the country.
The celebration kicks off Oct. 25 with a parade of more than two dozen highly decorated barges—some with musical entertainers—floating down the River Walk canal. For the best experience, buy tickets for seats; premium ones include dinner.
Other activities take place in historic La Villita and Hemisfair Park, site of the 1968 World’s Fair. Expect lots of food, music, entertainment, crafts, flowers and ofrendas (altars to honor passed family and friends). It’s a great homage to the city’s history and heritage.
In delving into San Antonio’s past, many people first think of the Alamo due to its participation in the struggle for Texas independence. But that’s just part of a bigger story, that of the San Antonio Missions, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the story of Texas colonization by Spain with the founding of five missions—the Alamo, originally named San Antonio de Valero, being one of them.
The missions were established in the early 1700s to colonize the area, convert the indigenous people and secure Spain’s hold on the territory. Four of the five missions are now part of the National Park system.
The best way to understand the history is to start with the Visitor Center at Mission San Jose. For a great overview, ranger-guided walks are offered at 10 and 11 a.m. almost every day. Passionate history buffs will want to visit the other four missions and the Alamo, which was secularized, renamed and turned into a fort in 1803.
For a fast trip through several centuries—kaleidoscopic colors and a mix tape with music from classical, folk, ragtime, jazz, blues and, of course mariachi melodies—check out the sound and light show on the facade of the San Fernando Cathedral. Twice a night, Tuesday through Sunday, The Saga, a 24-minute presentation created by internationally famous artist Xavier de Richemont, is a definite do-not-miss—and it’s free!
Not far away is the Historic Market Square, home to another spot I visit every time I go to San Antonio: Mi Tierra Café y Panaderia. Touristy, yes, but in the best possible way, this huge complex is a rainbow of bright colors—and strolling mariachis. There’s always a line but this is worth the wait. And the market is the best spot to shop for souvenirs, piñatas, pottery and Day of the Dead paraphernalia.
Tied with the Alamo for the San Antonio icon has to be the River Walk, a river bypass created in the 1930s for flood control and beautification. Today it’s a lovely waterway lined with cafes, hotels and spots to rest and reflect.
It also runs by La Villita, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. With roots going back 300 years to a Native American village, the area, now on the National Register of Historic Places, retains remnants of the city’s earliest colonial and military activity. Today it is an arts hub—a wonderful place to shop for local (and not-so-local) arts and crafts.
My home base on my latest trip to the city was the Valencia Hotel Riverwalk. The décor of the hotel is a blend of Spanish Colonial—a tribute to the city’s history—and modern Mediterranean styles. A central courtyard is often the site of special events. When we were there, there was an evening of wine and cheese and an elegant tango demonstration. The hotel is easy walking distance from many of the major downtown sites: the Alamo, the Market, the Cathedral, and more.
Just a short walk from the hotel, my husband, Jack, and I had breakfast at La Panaderia. We got royal treatment with four different breakfast entrees! I was served avocado toast with cherry tomatoes, pink onion and queso fresco and French toast with whipped cream and berries, while Jack was given Ranchero Eggs Benedictine with smoked pork and a dish named El Buenos Dias, sort of an open-faced BLT with turkey, egg whites, avocado and cilantro mayo. Of course, we both had to try a bit of everything—which is why we skipped lunch.
Another of my favorite places for breakfast is the Guenther House—home of the founder of Pioneer Mills. Expect wonderful baked goods, good gravy, even their own brand of coffee. The cinnamon rolls are the size of cantaloupes!
The Guenther House is in the King William neighborhood, named for the King of Prussia by German immigrants who settled the area. It’s a neighborhood of elegant mansions, several of which are open for tours.
The Germans also brought a beer-brewing heritage. William Menger opened Texas’s first commercial brewery in 1855. This was followed by Lone Star Brewery and Pearl Beer. The latter gave name to one of the city’s liveliest areas, the Pearl District.
Many of the old brewery buildings add interest to the Pearl architecture. The San Antonio Museum of Art is actually housed in the old Lone Star Brewery. The area has a beautiful gathering place, cool boutiques and interesting restaurants. It was a real treat to try raclette at Mon Chou Chou, a French Bistro there.
Other do-not-miss spots include the McNay Art Museum and the Briscoe Western Art Museum. The Witte Museum is an omnibus museum, with exhibits covering everything from nature, science, art and history, as well as a great children’s area.
For those traveling with children, popular stops include Six Flags Fiesta Texas, Sea World San Antonio and Morgan’s Wonderland, the only Ultra-Accessible™ Park in the world.
There’s way too much to do in San Antonio—I could fill a book. Go discover the city for yourself. Eat your heart out at wonderful restaurants. Enjoy the scenery, culture and history. And have the time of your life celebrating the Day of the Dead.
The festival, honoring the lives and legacies of ancestors, is centuries old—dating back to the ancient Aztecs.
Tied with the Alamo for the San Antonio icon has to be the River Walk, a river bypass created in the 1930s for flood control and beautification.