For nearly three decades, Gary Elliott and his family have watched the Texas Hill Country wine industry grow from a small, largely experimental enterprise into one of the most dynamic agricultural and tourism industries in the state. At Driftwood Estate Winery, they have experienced that evolution, often leading the way. As they approach 30 years of winemaking, they’ve earned a reputation for wine that goes beyond the countless Texas competitions and awards, achieving nationwide recognition and respect.
What began as a relatively small operation—with roots literally and figurately planted by Gary and his wife Kathy—has grown into a winery, vineyard, and brewery that has become part of the fabric of the region. For that fabric to be sewn, early on Gary spent countless hours in Austin advocating for the legislation that would make it possible to be an operating winery, and winemakers and wine lovers alike have benefited from his labors.
Gary’s daughter, Laura Elliott, has been part of the business for more than a decade, working in the tasting room before taking on a bigger role behind the scenes. Today, she handles much of the winery’s design and branding, including its wine labels and photography, as well as social media and the retail shop. That shop has become a destination of its own, stocked with wine glasses and humorous wine-themed gifts alongside Texas-inspired gifts, jewelry, hats, blankets, and products from makers and brands she particularly enjoys.
But the heart of Driftwood Estate Winery remains the vineyard, which rolls out in the fields below the tasting room. The Tuscan-style views and serene ambiance have long-made Driftwood a beloved spot to enjoy a tasting or relax on a blanket with a bottle of wine when we finally feel the relief of autumn’s coolness.
While the summer heat is rough on all flora and fauna here, it’s the spring freezes, diseases, and scarcity of water that pose the most serious threats to grapevines.
Winegrowing in Central Texas, with unpredictable seasons, has never been for the faint of heart. Late freezes last year devastated the crop, and this year, Driftwood Estate harvested only about a ton and a half of grapes from a vineyard that can produce 60 to 80 tons in a good year. When asked if he gets stressed out by the volatility and instability, Gary dismisses the notion with a smirk: “This is farming.”
His smirk disappears when talking about water. The creek that once supplied water for irrigation has been dry for roughly two years. They’re now irrigating just a couple of rows at a time to keep the vines alive. It’s a sobering reality in a part of Texas where population growth has placed increasing pressure on groundwater resources. For an agricultural operation, the consequences can be immediate. A vineyard can survive a poor harvest. It cannot survive indefinitely without water.
But Driftwood Estate Winery has a history of meeting challenges head-on. Gary has spent much of his career working on obstacles facing Texas grape growers, including Pierce’s disease, a bacterial disease that blocks water-transporting vessels and can kill grapevines. His work with researchers, growers, and state officials helped advance the approval of tools to combat the disease in Texas.
Driftwood Estate, one of just two wineries in the region thirty years ago, is now part of a flourishing industry in the Hill Country, where visitors and locals can enjoy hundreds of wineries. And while the ongoing dryness is likely to remain a problem, the winery has plenty of wine in reserve. It hopes to always have access to high-quality grapes, largely due to its partnership with Newsom Vineyards in the High Plains. Strong harvests in previous years have produced vintages that are still being enjoyed today. Among the current standouts is a newly released Petit Verdot, a softer, fruit-forward red. The winery’s celebrated Alamo Red, a classic Bordeaux blend of all five of the Bordeaux varietals, and Longhorn Red, a Cabernet/Syrah blend, also remain favorites—with both earning top awards in major competitions.
Over the years, Driftwood Estate wines have repeatedly surprised judges accustomed to the more established wine regions of California. At one San Francisco Chronicle International Wine Competition—reminiscent of the Judgment of Paris (the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976)—several Texas wines performed exceptionally well, with Driftwood Estates leading the Texas contingent. And this year, four other Hill Country wines won their first-ever gold medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards, the largest international wine competition.
As another fall approaches, visitors will come to Driftwood Estate Winery to enjoy a glass of Texas wine and take in the Hill Country landscape. Behind that leisurely experience is an agricultural operation working hard to not just survive but to thrive—and a family hoping that the next chapter of Texas wine will have enough rain to make it possible.
For more information visit www.driftwoodwine.com.