Usually, the word “okay” is reserved for something average. It’s something that meets standards satisfactorily, nothing beyond.
In Rob Tabeek’s vocabulary, it means far more.
It means trust.
His shop, Babbit’s in Pine Brook, has a following. Almost a cult-like following, actually. People come in extremely regularly for Rob’s cooking, many of them multiple times a day.
“If you did everything like everybody else, you’re just another guy. And I don’t want to be that guy,” Rob admits. “Who’s cooking roast beef for 24 hours? I do. You buy good quality ingredients, don’t screw it up, don’t over or under cook it, that’s what it’s about. I don’t keep secrets about cooking, but what makes the difference is I can give my recipe, but nobody’s going to do the same things I do to get there. It’s about technique and taking care to put in the best possible ingredients. That’s why you can follow a recipe exactly and your food still won’t come out the same at home.”
The bottom line is that Rob just wants to make people happy. That’s why he pours his heart and soul into Babbit’s after leaving teaching behind. He ran a program to provide food for end-stage people, but became frustrated when the system didn’t allow him to serve them all that they really wanted. He cashed it all in to do things his way and to create the happiness with his food that he knew he could.
His confidence in his abilities paid off.
And it’s allowed him to expand beyond they typical sandwich fare you’d get anywhere else. Things like camel, wild boar, elk, and even kangaroo have graced his specials menu.
“It’s only weird because it’s not from around here. You eat what you have available. That’s why it’s not unusual to eat gator if you’re from New Orleans. It’s what they have there, it’s just normal. I give people a food window to the rest of the world.”
This is a NJ man who knows a thing or two about native foods. On his left arm is a tattoo of Taylor Ham. In New Orleans, that would be weird.
Why serve exotic foods? Basically the challenge to see if he could. “I had a few friends who all had great business minds telling me that I shouldn’t try to get too fancy with that stuff. So I established myself with all of the usual fare, but with my twist on things. Nothing crazy. Then someone said ‘oh, if you serve alligator, you think anybody’s going to come?’ But then I had a friend in a fantasy hockey league who called his team ‘Alligator Po’Boy’ and one day I made them alligator po’boys, and they all wanted to try it. Suddenly people were willing to try it when they came in again since they already trusted my cooking.
So the grilled kangaroo loin with sweet potato and arugula sold out in two days. It may be an unfamiliar food, but in his hands — and kitchen — it won’t seem weird at all.
The vast majority of the food you’ll find at Babbit’s will be familiar, although they’ll likely rank with the best version you’ve ever had. For a lot of his customers, they come in not knowing what they want other than a vague “something with chicken”. They trust his talents. They’ll ask him to surprise them, and he always finds a way. For Rob, that’s okay.
Here, “okay” is sublime.
To eat at Babbitt’s (well, carry out), go to 28 Route 46 in Pine Brook, any day but Sunday.