As you head west on I-70, the Colorado River slips alongside the highway, catching flashes of gold in the evening light. For the first time all week, you aren't rushing to get anywhere. The De Beque Canyon releases you. The Grand Valley opens. The cliffs rise on the horizon. At first, they're just a dark line against the sky. Then, mile by mile, they grow taller, layered, rugged, almost impossibly red and purple in the setting sun.
You realize you haven't checked your phone in at least twenty minutes. Did you even have service through the canyon? You don't care; you're headed toward Palisade. Toward a little town tucked between the river and the cliffs, where two-lane roads run past peach orchards and vineyards, and the pace seems to slow down on purpose.
Maybe this weekend doesn't need an itinerary. Maybe you just want a porch, a cold drink and a plate of something good. You don't need another place to go. You need somewhere to land; somewhere to breathe. Somewhere to slow down enough to remember what a weekend is supposed to feel like.
Pulling into town, you hear your stomach rumble. Food first. As you crawl down Main Street, relishing that there is little to no traffic, you come to a stop at Third Street, where a name catches your attention to the west: Fidel’s Cocina & Bar.
Walking through the green porch to the door, you notice a bakery next door and make a mental note for tomorrow. You enter the restaurant and are led to a table. As soon as the waitress sets down the coaster, you know you’re in the right place. Perusing the menu, you find this isn’t just any taco shop: poblano fries, elote, pozole, chile relleno—true scratch cooking.
When the waitress comes to take your order, your curiosity gets the better of your empty stomach. “I need to know the story behind the name,” you say, before realizing your inside thoughts are now out. Luckily, she laughs good-naturedly and points at a photo on the wall. “There he is,” she responds. “Our namesake.” A dog’s deep brown eyes and coppery blonde hair create quite the contrast, but it’s his ears that give him away. One is cocked straight up, while the other is far more relaxed, and you realize that is the same dog in the logo on the menu. “His name is Fidel,” she says. “He was a foster that came with that name. By the time the restaurant owners decided to adopt him, he had earned the right to keep it.”
You order your food with a full pour of Rey Campero Jabali mezcal, neat, because you rarely see it out in the wild. After your meal, it’s time to address the next most pertinent need, lodging. The waitress is kind enough to tell you of a motel about a half mile away called Spoke and Vine. You raise an eyebrow at the word “motel,” and she is quick to assure you although the building is historic to Palisade, it was fully renovated in 2019, and the owners have a background in hospitality.
A quick Google search confirms it’s situated in the middle of town, which will be ideal tomorrow as you have yet to decide what comes next. You thank the waitress and as you leave; she says, “If you see Fidel over there, tell him hi for me. His owners own that place, too.” If the lodging is half as good as the food, you know you are in good hands.
Two mostly full turns and barely two streets later, you are in the parking lot. You see a courtyard area with several guests enjoying the last few moments of the evening. At check-in, you ask about recommendations for the following day. The receptionist lights up and tells you that a guidebook in your room has been curated by the owners. He shares that some of his favorite activities are hiking and mountain biking. Early mornings are great, before it gets too warm. Then, find a winery and maybe a hot tub before finding a good spot for dinner again.
Feeling comfortable, or just looking for a common thread, you thank him and ask if Fidel is still around. He smiles and says that Fidel isn’t in today, but Jeff and Jody, his owners are. “You just missed them,” he says. “They had reservations at Pesche, and you never skip out on those.”
Before finding your room, you check out The Motel Bar and see if the guests in the courtyard are willing to give you any tips on things to do in the morning. Cocktail in hand, you join the group as though you had just stepped out for a moment. They are more than happy to tell you of their Palisade adventures. One guest even reviews the comprehensive notes she kept on her phone.
You decide to take a hike, visit a winery, and find the hot tub that the receptionist mentioned. Before you turn in for the night, you inquire about the bakery you saw before grabbing dinner. “Slice of Life,” says the guest with the notes. “Lucky for you, Spoke and Vine offers complimentary breakfast delivered to your room in the mornings. The granola is from the bakery, and the coffee is roasted locally. Just let them know what time you would like it delivered.”
You wake up in the morning feeling like you slept on a cloud. If you weren’t so excited about your day, you would hunker down for another few hours. Just then, you hear a knock on the door, and you know your coffee has arrived. You haul yourself out of bed and graciously accept your breakfast.
Next, it’s time to throw on your Altras and head to the Mount Garfield Trailhead. Once you finish your hike, you’re grateful for asking a few clarifying questions of the locals before committing. Daybreak was certainly the right time to start, and packing extra water, a hat and sunscreen was necessary. However strenuous, the view was worth it. You could see for miles in every direction, truly feeling on top of the world. You check your watch; 3.6 miles and about 2,000 feet of vertical climbing put you right at about brunch time. Perfect.
After freshening up, you walk into Colterris Collections and buy their “Glass & A Pass” experience. You had pre-ordered an artisanal charcuterie board the evening prior and were looking forward to it after working up an appetite. You found out last night that Collections is the newest installment for the estate winery. They have a world-class wine artifact collection in addition to some high-end estate selection wines.
After savoring your charcuterie and a few wine samples served on a genuine Colterris wine barrel stave, you pour a glass of your favorite and take it into the memorabilia room. You find that the building was originally owned by one of Colorado’s wine pioneers. Doug and Sue Phillips founded Plum Creek Cellars in 1984; it holds the uniquely historic designation of being Colorado Winery License Number 10. They were the first commercial winery to commit entirely to crafting premium wines using 100 percent Colorado-grown grapes. At the time, committing to local high-altitude viticulture was considered highly risky and unprecedented.
After Doug passed away, Sue wanted the label to live on. When the High family purchased the winery, they renovated from a wine production facility to a collection. Today, it has about 8,000 pieces of memorabilia from around the world that have been personally collected by Colterris Founder, Scott High. You browse the collection of cavalry sabers from the Battle of Waterloo that were used for wine sabering, a Roman wine jug from the 1300s, memorabilia from prohibition, British corkscrews and more.
You strike up a conversation with another admirer of the collection who seems to know quite a bit about Colterris. High’s family owned a liquor store in Denver, and as with any family business, he was put to work early. Wine fascinated him, and he dug deep into history while asking good questions. Why were the bottles different colors and shapes? Why is one more expensive than another? Once he hit drinking age, he was able to taste his way through history as well. Later, High was hired by the House of Seagram. While there, he was exposed to global viticulture and studied with the Geisenheim program in Germany.
“How in the world did he end up in Palisade?” you inquire, fully entranced in the story. Your new friend responds that his mom and dad met when they both worked for Seagram and that his dad famously asked his mom to marry him with, “I will not promise you a rose garden, but I will promise you a vineyard.” They started with 11 acres of Palisade peaches and a joint dream to make something of the Colorado land.
“Wait,” you say. “Mom and dad?” You look at his nametag and realize you have been speaking to Keenan High, Operations Director and Manager at Colterris Winery, and son of founders Scott and Theresa. He graciously excuses himself, saying he must get ready for a five-course chef’s dinner that evening called Corks and Forks. He notes that the 34 seats sell out quickly, but he hopes you join them the next time you come through town.
During your stay, you hear wonderful things about Wine Country Inn and decide that is where you will lay your head tonight. On your way in, you survey the surroundings. The inn has quite a different feel from what you have experienced so far—it’s almost like a Victorian farmhouse, and it is significantly larger than other places you have seen.
At check in, the host asks if you prefer a view of the vineyards or the Book Cliffs. Delighted to have an option, you note you would love a view of the vineyards as you spent a considerable amount of time with the cliffs already today. The host chuckles and shows you on the map your room location as well as the location of the pool and hot tub. She recommends the Palisade Rim Trailhead, which offers a less strenuous hike than your previous one. She then tells you about a to-go snack bag option the hotel offers specifically for guests who want to explore the Grand Valley. It serves as a portable charcuterie picnic pack and includes seasonal items based on availability. You order one on the spot.
There’s also a complimentary wine reception every evening from 5 to 6 p.m. with the inn’s private label, Ten Acre Farm. Wines are made from the very grapes you see outside your window. They offer samples of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling and Meritage Red and White.
You ask about the property’s restaurant, Caroline’s, and find that it’s named after the owner’s granddaughter. “Our culinary emphasis is on fresh local foods prepared in the classic French tradition,” the host shares. “We strive to refine the marriage of local Palisade and Colorado foods with local wines.” You make a dinner reservation before heading to the hot tub.
With rejuvenated muscles, you get ready for the reception, where you learn that the inn’s owners, Jean and Richard Tally, spent years traveling, taking notes and taking lots of pictures prior to establishing their property. They have a history in hospitality and formed a friendship with Steve Smith, founder of Grand River Vineyards. Smith notes that the only thing he saw missing from Palisade and the wine scene was a lodging component, so he invited the Tallys to build near his winery. About five years ago, the couple purchased Grand River Vineyards and created a wine estate, offering the total wine experience.
As you walk into the dining room from the reception, you take in the high ceilings and massive windows overlooking the vineyards and the cliffs. Once seated, the waiter explains that the menu is created to be farm-to-fork and that as the inn grew, the need for a more formal dining experience evolved. The restaurant started with breakfast and then incorporated the Tapestry Bar. Eventually, it became so popular they had to remodel the kitchen and dining room to accommodate the need.
After you order, you look around at photos of the family, feeling as though you really have been invited into someone’s dining room. The waiter tells the chef that you have a few questions, so the chef brings out your food. In your brief conversation, you discover he’s so enthusiastic about food, the whole world melts away when he starts talking about flavor profiles and how they use what is local to craft a menu.
Your meal wraps, and you head back to your room, noticing for the first time in weeks that your shoulders have dropped. Your steps have slowed and you are not in a rush to be anywhere. The next morning, you pick up your to-go snack bag and head to the Palisade Rim Trail. Because you’re heading home today, you decide to tackle the lower loop rim this time, so you still have time to visit one more vineyard before you head back to reality.
Integrated within the stunning views of the valley are the historic petroglyphs on the dark, flat-faced boulders on the uphill side of the trail. You take a minute at the top to appreciate the weekend and what it meant to you. This place is in your backyard; there is no reason not to come back.
Parched after your hike, you climb into the car and polish off the water that came with your snack bag before heading down the street to the Bookcliff Vineyards tasting room. There, your wine educator pours your flight and shares the evolution of the vineyards. Originally established in 1996 by John Galich and Ulla Merz, Bookcliff began modestly as a 10-acre basement project producing 2,000 cases of traditional varietals like Chardonnay and Merlot. It blossomed over the years, pioneering a unique dual footprint with tasting rooms in Boulder and Palisade.
In 2023, two aerospace engineers and wine enthusiasts officially acquired the vineyards. Jordan Dickard and Christopher Allen had been making their own wine for a while, sourcing grapes from Bookcliff. As loyal customers, they were given the opportunity to purchase the vineyards and put their own stamp on the label.
“We love the science and viticulture of winemaking,” the wine educator tells you. The Colorado climate and this area provide great water from the Colorado River, good sediment flow from the mountains, hot days and cool nights—ultimately making the grapes suffer a little to establish strong roots. He notes how the Grand Valley also has good winds that keep mold down and produce healthy vines, creating a uniquely Colorado acidity and color. “We are not in Colorado trying to force winemaking,” he says. “This area gives us something unique to show the world and speak about Colorado in a different way.”
“You just spent a good bit of time saying ‘we,’” you say. He smiles and stretches out a hand, “I’m Jordan,” he says as you shake hands. “Thank you for visiting us.”
Sitting on the porch with your final glass of Chardonnay, you reminisce about the weekend. Each experience was unique, but the common thread was small business, hospitality and pride in ownership. You have experienced so much in a short amount of time and know that you’ve still only scratched the surface with everything there is to discover.
This agricultural land isn't simply a backdrop built for tourists. These are working farms and vineyards. The landscape feels enormous, but the town feels intimate. It isn’t Napa. It’s not trying to be Aspen or Boulder—that’s part of the charm. It’s uniquely Palisade.
A Few Days in Palisade: Where I Sipped and Stayed
Fidel’s Cocina & Bar
Spoke and Vine Motel
Mount Garfield Trailhead
Colterris Winery
Wine Country Inn
Palisade Rim Trail
Bookcliff Vineyards