With its opening this past July on Walnut Street, Cozobi Fonda Fina has brought a definitive and modern dining experience to Boulder that pays homage to traditional Mexican cooking. The brainchild of Chef Johnny Curiel, the restaurant builds on the soaring reputation of Alma Fonda Fina in Denver. Both of Curiel's restaurants are manifestations of his rich heritage and deep love for Mexico's diverse and flavorful cuisine.
Chef Curiel, born into a family of chefs in Guadalajara, started his culinary journey at a young age. He quickly realized that the only way he could spend quality time with his family would be to join them due to the critical dedication that the businesses demanded. "Growing up in a household of chefs, it was the only thing that we knew," Johnny recalls. He recognizes the almost non-existent work/life balance that came along with the hospitality business back then, and he currently strives to provide a more sustainable balance to his and his team's families.
When he started washing dishes in his father's restaurants at age 14, it laid the foundation for a lifelong passion. His successive experiences in kitchens grounded in excellence, working for chefs like Richard Sandoval and Troy Guard, opened his eyes even further to how food and hospitality intertwine to create the ultimate guest experience. At age 18, Johnny embarked on dozens of trips to Mexico to immerse himself in the country's culinary traditions and learn from street vendors, home cooks, and renowned chefs.
This extensive culinary exploration is evident in every dish at Cozobi Fonda Fina. The restaurant's name reflects its ethos: "Fonda" signifies a modest and amiable neighborhood eatery, while "Fina" denotes something fine or outstanding. The restaurant embodies this duality, offering a refined dining experience rooted in the warmth and authenticity of the traditional Mexican Fonda. The hospitality is genuine, informative, and all-encompassing, evident by the welcoming floor staff and the kitchen team serving patrons at the chef's counter, blurring the lines between the front and back of the house.
Its robust nixtamalization program and dedication to traditional Mexican cooking methods are central to the restaurant's philosophy. Nixtamalization, an ancient process of preparing corn, is crucial to making the restaurant's exceptional tortillas and masa-based dishes. "It's about paying homage to Mexico," says Johnny. "One of the ways you can make it authentic is by controlling every ingredient." The restaurant uses ten different types of Mexican corn, and each member of the kitchen staff learns about the various characteristics and cooking methods of each type
The restaurant's wood-fired grill, fueled by hickory, honors centuries-old Mexican cooking practices. Every dish touches the grill, infusing each bite with distinct charred flavors that highlight the natural aromatics of the ingredients.
A signature dish is the Camote Asado, featuring agave-charred sweet potatoes, broken salsa macha, and a velvety fennel requesón. The sweet potatoes are perfectly tender, their natural sweetness enhanced by the smoke from the grill. The broken salsa macha integrates heat evenly and adds a nutty crunch.
The Ostiones A la Leña, showcasing East Coast oysters, and the Aguachile De Hierbas Verde, featuring Japanese Hamachi, are a must-try from the "Crudos" section of the menu. The oysters are delicately grilled with salted butter, serrano ponzu, chive oil, and fresh lime, and the yellowtail is marinated in a bright green aguachile with smoked salt and Persian cucumber, adding depth and texture.
Cozobi Fonda Fina's commitment to tradition shines in the "De Nixtamal" section of the menu, especially with the Enmolada De Pollo. This dish features tender chicken enveloped in a deep blue masa, with a rich Oaxacan mole negro at the base of the plate. The heat and richness of the mole are balanced with a cooling crema agria and queso fresco.
Another highlight is the Pollo A Las Brasas, which features wood-fired chicken with roasted potatoes and chicatana mayonnaise. The chicken is perfectly cooked, and the wood-fired grill imparts smoke that enhances the flavor. A unique chicatana mayonnaise—a nod to the use of ants in traditional Mexican cooking—and a bright salsa verde are served on the side. Both add a delightful vehicle for dipping the juicy and tender chicken.
Integrating a vast list of mezcal, tequila, and other Mexican spirits, the bar creates cocktails with a twist on the traditional. In addition to a classic margarita, options include an avocado and sweet corn version, the former adding a delightful unctuousness with avocado puree. The Oaxacan Old Fashioned blends the tradition of tequila and its smoky cousin, mezcal, into a spiritous yet refreshing combination.
Johnny's dedication to his roots and passion for Mexican cuisine is palpable in every aspect of Cozobi Fonda Fina. This is also evident in the education and passion he imparts to his dedicated team; he mentions an upcoming trip to Mexico City with some of his select staff to allow them to experience the cuisine that Cozobi Fonda Fina celebrates firsthand.
Chef Curiel's journey from Guadalajara to Colorado, through various culinary landscapes, has culminated in a restaurant that celebrates Mexico's integrity, tradition, and rich cultural experiences. In creating a transportive dining experience where every dish tells a story, he and his team invite diners to share in their cultural pride and culinary journey.
To learn more or make a reservation, visit CozobiFondaFina.com.