The silvery-green shimmer of wild juniper trees dot the hillsides around the Flathead Valley. The dusty blue berries ripen in early fall and into winter, making it the perfect time for seasoning a roast, infusing syrup, or making a marinade. The citrusy, piney flavor of a juniper berry also makes for a special addition to a holiday feast or celebration.
Private chef Chris DiMaio of Montana Craft Kitchen has been foraging for juniper berries for 20 years.
“Edges of forest and rocky outcroppings are a good place to hunt for berries,” DiMaio said.
Depending on the dish, chefs or home cooks can forage for green berries earlier in the season for a more citrus flare or pick purple berries that are the ripest, giving dishes a flavor reminiscent of dry red wine and black pepper. Ironically, the juniper berry is not a true berry. It’s actually flesh inside a cone.
DiMaio aims to pick communis juniper berries, which are the least toxic and safest to eat.
“The best way is by leaf type. The juniper communis has awl shaped needle like leaves,” DiMaio said.
Juniper Sabina, which are toxic, have leaves that are pressed against the stem and resemble roof shingles. Juniper Sabina are more ornamental and are mostly used in landscaping.
Self-taught forager and owner of Montana Jewel Naturals, Carrie Garbar, also recommends using PictureThis App when foraging for juniper berries or any wild edible plant.
“It does tell you if it’s toxic,” Garbar said.
Garbar also recommends foraging off of high-trafficked areas and away from highways.
Before chefs and home cooks prepare a recipe with juniper berries they need to be dried either on a window sill for two to three days or in a dehydrator if a large crop has been foraged. Once they are dried the berries can be crushed to release their piney flavor and aroma.
Here, chefs and mixologists in the Flathead Valley share recipes using juniper berries for delectable meals and libations this holiday season.
Venison Marsala by Chef DiMaio
Use older purple berries for this recipe. Dry juniper and pulverize in a powder. Rub venison medallions with the juniper dust and salt. Pan fry the medallions in some olive oil and then remove from the pan. Add a touch more oil and sauté some shallot, and foraged mushrooms, add a bit of sage, then deglaze with some marsala wine, reduce, then add some game stock and reduce. Add the seared medallions, add some huckleberries. Warm medallions through and add a touch more juniper dust.
Juniper rub for venison by John Morrison, Executive Chef at Whitefish Lodge Boat Club
20 juniper berries and crush
10 black peppercorns and grind them up
Tablespoon of salt
Add gram of rosemary and of thyme
A teaspoon of granulated garlic
Well combined
Hot sear on it
Put all into spice grinder
Rub it all over venison
Hot sear and finish protein in oven at 350 degrees
Evergreen Juniper Spark by Glacier Distilling
2oz Glacier Distilling Evergreen Gin
1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz honey syrup (1:1 honey and warm water)
2-3 fresh juniper berries, lightly muddled
2 oz chilled tonic water or dry sparkling wine for a fancied version
Ice
Gently muddle the juniper berries with the honey syrup. Add gin, lemon juice, and ice. Shake briefly until chilled. Strain into a chilled highball or coupe glass over fresh ice. Top with tonic water or sparkling wine. Garnish with a lemon twist, rosemary sprig, and a few floating juniper berries.