Imagine a scenic all-inclusive getaway that is only four hours from Missoula. A 1760 barn with a water powered gristmill turns at a slow speed—one that reflects the entire setting and purpose of the community and visitors that thrive there. There are dairy cows for fresh milk and cream, a cheese cave, a greenhouse, and delectables for purchase—all made from scratch or locally sourced. An espresso machine grinds as the wooden floorboards creak underfoot and a sourdough bagel is set out before me. Greycliff Mill is a place to truly unwind and reset, and while we’re at it, a place to reimagine life and all its complexities.
My husband and I mazed our way up the hillside with a sleepy toddler in the backseat when we arrived, our headlights showing the dirt path ahead. The Mountain Sheep Silo awaited us with its warm glow and charming amenities. There is no wifi here, no television. Just Tic-Tac-Toe and a sense of adventure in our rounded space. Our son marveled at life inside of a tin can: “We get to sleep in here!” But at breakfast, as I sit with this gorgeous bagel slathered with cream cheese, my little family and I are inspired by such a simple meal. The breakfast burrito is wrapped in a scratch made tortilla—it’s sweet and melts away in your mouth, making store-bought tortillas seem completely unacceptable now. The sunlight streams in through the floor-to-ceiling windows and we wander out the back doors to explore the quaint grounds.
We follow the maze of the working mill and the meandering stream that barely moves under the footbridge that we pass over. My son spots the swing set and games up ahead and flees. A few dogs are making their rounds to each visitor and I suspect this is a daily part of their day—begging for a scratch behind the ear or a crumb from a muffin. Along the roadway, a horse and carriage clink and clop. The young boy who’s driving gives us a passing wave.
There’s a leather shop where a man cuts a long piece of hide to length on a wide table. The room swells with that old fashioned scent of natural materials. For me, it’s like nestling up inside a favorite leather handbag or stepping into a beloved tack shop: timeless. Things made here last forever. Upstairs there are women spinning wool into yarn. We step closer to hone in on the practice of this art form. One of the women stops to show us the way she readies the wool, how it spins and takes shape. My hands are on my son’s shoulders as he points and leans in. Inquisitive. Around the attic-like space are woolens and woven treasures—little figurines and baby clothes. “That one right there was made by a 14-year-old boy,” one of the women says. It’s soft and perfect, a well executed outfit that was so thoughtfully made.
The cheese cave and greenhouse are of particular interest to us. Through a peephole in a wooden door in a dark underground alleyway, cheese is shelved and aging. The tunnel gives way to a ray of warm light coming from the greenhouse where the warm thick air hits us as we prop open the door. Grasses and flowers are abundant. Lettuce, tomatoes, and other vegetables seem to take turns growing in rows or beds at our feet. Where one plant is turning brown, another is vibrant green. Nothing seems to be in abundance but taking its rightful turn with the natural turn of season.
Back outside, the cows are licking their calve’s heads and the term “cowlick” makes perfect sense now. We make the short walk back to our Mountain Sheep Silo and ready ourselves for the evening’s feast. Twice or three times per month, Greycliff Mill offers a farm-to-table themed dinner. Ours is Indian themed where we meet this five course menu of items: Chai tea, samosas, kachumber salad, butter chicken, and pistachio ice cream. Every ingredient is chosen to highlight the extravagance that can be achieved with seasonal ingredients and a little imagination. The old barn is home to these intimate dinners, which are known to pack the place and bring a home-like feeling to all guests. The wood beams reveal years of character and history and each dish brings new life to the space and conversations around us. Not to my surprise, my toddler devours the pistachio ice cream as his main meal but who cares when you’re on a getaway?
Night has fallen outside and each table begins to collect their coats and scurry off to the parking lot or neighboring silo. We hoof it on the winding path back to our humble abode and as I’m looking up at the vast sky above us, a soft green light stretches out toward the cliffs. Aurora borealis, the northern lights. There isn’t a better finale than an after dinner walk under Montana’s night light.
Greycliff Mill offers a one-of-a-kind experience in simplicity and old world charm—a step away from the chaos of today's world, reminding us of what humble roots we share here in the West. And how we can easily return to them and relish the experience with our loved ones.
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"A 1760 barn with a water powered gristmill turns at a slow speed—one that reflects the entire setting and purpose of the community and visitors that thrive there."
"The room swells with that old fashioned scent of natural materials. For me, it’s like nestling up inside a favorite leather handbag or stepping into a beloved tack shop: timeless. Things made here last forever."
