Wine industry consultant Richard Leahy has been writing about wine for 40 years, and while his writing and editorial work have been a part of numerous publications, he is also well-known locally for having literally written the book on Virginia wines: “Beyond Jefferson’s Vines.” Naturally, he has expert advice on which local wines to pair with holiday meals or to sip at parties and other gatherings.
Leahy says that sparkling wine has become a Virginia specialty, pointing to the fact that several received the honor of being Virginia Governor’s Cup Case winners. “For the holidays, sparkling is fun and festive,” he said. One of his picks is Veritas Vineyard and Winery’s sparkling white, which was among the Governor’s Cup Case winners.
For whites, Leahy recommends Vermentino, Viognier, and Petit Manseng. “Barboursville Vineyards has been doing Vermentino for about a decade, and its ‘23 vintage won the Governor’s Cup,” he said. “It’s not as forwardly fruity as a Viognier, and it has hints of Meyer lemon, a little spice. It’s dry but fruity in an elegant way -- good with turkey and gravy.” As for Viognier, Leahy points to Dennis Horton as the pioneer of growing the grape in Virginia 30 years ago, and nods to its richness and aromas of honeysuckle, peach, and apricot as reasons why it is also a perfect pairing with turkey. If you don’t turn to the original vineyard for Viognier, there are numerous wineries throughout the Commonwealth that produce it. One in particular to try comes from Veritas Vineyard and Winery, which Leahy describes as “elegant.”
Meanwhile, if your holiday main is ham (or maybe you’re serving classic Virginia ham biscuits for brunch), Leahy says that rosé works well and that Petit Manseng also complements the meat beautifully. “Petit Manseng is gaining popularity because it’s sustainable and it's like our version of a Riesling,” he said. “It has high acidity and a very fruity tropical fruit character. You can have it from dry to sweet -- it’s very versatile.” His top picks for these come from Michael Shaps Winery and Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards.
For reds, Leahy recommends getting creative during the holidays and thinking outside of the typical Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Instead, he highly recommends Cabernet Franc. “Cab Franc is our star grape here, and it’s changed dramatically in the last decade; it’s a grape that’s made in the vineyard more than any other,” he said. "People got the French clones and went and found the root stocks and the right site to plant them, and the results have been absolutely dramatic -- it does well because of the clay soil,” Leahy suggests serving the wine with beef, but notes that it’s also very versatile.
Another style of wine that Leahy says is compatible with a wide range of foods you may find gracing a holiday table or party spread is a Meritage blend like Barboursville Vineyard’s Octagon. “The Meritage category is for people who want to get some diversity,” he said. “I recommend it strongly.”
Whether you’re looking to pour reds, whites, or rosés, or you’re planning to toast with bubbly, Leahy suggests ensuring that they come from Virginia. “Support Virginia wine during the holidays,” he said. “Show it off to visitors -- all of the grapes and styles that are not easy to find elsewhere.”
If you’re not sure where to start when choosing your holiday bottles, Richard Leahy recommends visiting virginiawine.org. Then, click on the Governor’s Cup page to see the wines that won and where to buy them.