The hot Montana sun isn’t the only thing baking the alligator to a crisp. The asado, an Argentine grill, cooks the exotic meat alongside racks of ram and mountain lion. I step under the canopy for some shade and space away from the cowboy boots kicking up torrents of dust. With the rodeo happening in the backdrop, the alligator jaws gleaming up at me seem strangely juxtaposed. How could a catering company this bold do so well in rural Kalispell? I thought. But then I tasted the brisket… and as a vegetarian for the first 23 years of my life, this was my first taste of brisket.
That was three years ago—my first interview with Stephen Kina, owner and pitmaster of 406 BBQ. Since then, Chef Steph has won “Best of the Flathead” titles, been asked to cater at the Kentucky Derby, and recently appeared on Chopped Castaways, a Survivor-style cooking show.
It was on this island that Chef Steph really found himself put to the test. With limited ingredients and a clock constantly ticking in his ear, he often felt reminded of his status as the only non-classically trained chef among the bunch.
“Not a lot of people will step into the arena. There are a lot of people who have something negative to say… They’re more comfortable critiquing,” says Chef Steph.
Before he went into the culinary space, Chef Steph was in the army. While he was in the field, “The Gut Truck” would come and sell him and his buddies snacks. After seeing this, he felt inspired. A food truck was in his future, he was sure of it, but little did he recognize the full extent that food would consume his life.
“I knew if I didn’t try, I’d regret it forever,” says Chef Steph.
One might say his getting on Chopped Castaways was an oversight. After all, Chef Steph even said himself that Chopped was the one show he wouldn’t do. So when he received the casting call, assuming it was for a BBQ-specific show, the most pragmatic response would be to politely decline.
But pragmatism wasn’t part of the question when he left his accounting career to start crafting Polynesian-fusion food here in the valley. Keeping the limelight on Polynesian culture propelled him to accept the proposition, as well as to accept the potential disconcertion. As he wound in and out of challenges during his time on the show, his true north was to focus on elevating traditional Polynesian dishes while adding his own flair.
“I wanted to put my culture on that plate,” says Chef Steph. “It’s wild to be surrounded by world-class chefs and judges and realize nobody knew what an andagi donut was.”
If you’re like me, maybe you’re unfamiliar with Polynesian food or you’re not sure what kind of flavors to expect. History, tradition, and food are deeply connected in this culture, meaning that before you taste, you should know. Know where these dishes come from and their significance to the over one thousand islands in Polynesia. Meat jun, for example, has been a tradition in Hawaii since Korean immigrants first arrived on the islands.
While many meals reveal Hawaii’s ethnic diversity, poi is one of the most traditional Hawaiian dishes you are likely to find. Made from taro root, poi is a representation—and a fascinating mythology—of the Hawaiians’ belief that we are intrinsically united with the land.
Instead of leaning into the temptation to do more traditional barbecue, both in his business and on Chopped Castaways, Chef Steph has dug deep by tracing this lineage. Staying true to his roots has also led him to the massive success he’s seeing today. As a friend once told him, “You’re in a niche of a niche of a niche.” (Food → BBQ → Polynesian-style)
“The Polynesian space is underrepresented,” admits Chef Steph, which is hugely part of why he was recruited to make food for the premiere of the live-action Moana film.
Having grown up wrestling, Chef Steph was familiar with the Rock, so when the A-lister first commented on his Instagram videos, the feeling was certainly euphoric. Disney reps eventually reached out to him to participate in the premiere festivities. In their interview, The Rock says of Chef Steph, “I’ve never seen anyone doing what this man does… He’s going to be an iconic chef.”
But it's not for his own glory that Chef Steph participates so often in the public eye. He says, “It’s for the Lord, my wife, and my boys. They see me making videos, and I get to share it with them and make my brand more than just me. My boys and my wife are my everything. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to chase my dream.”
At the end of the day, Chef Steph is really a culinary conservationist for Polynesian culture, honoring traditions while keeping the spark alive. Thanks to his faithfulness to aspiration, we’ve now all been blessed with the uniqueness of Chef Steph’s fusion barbecue. I wonder: if each of us were faithful to our own aspirations, what we might bless others with too…
As Chef Steph says, “The biggest regret you could have is living with regret your whole life.”
Stephen Kina | 406-BBQ.com
Chef Stephen Kina's award-winning barbecue has appeared at the Kentucky Derby, Chopped Castaways, the premiere of the live-action Moana, the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, and many other cooking shows and food festivals. 406 BBQ also offers private event and destination catering. Join the other 125,000 users following @406_bbq for new recipes weekly!
The biggest regret you could have is living with regret your whole life.