Barbacana opened in April with chef Christian Hernandez of Oxheart, Pax Americana, Indigo, and March at the helm. Located in downtown Houston near Buffalo Bayou, the restaurant offers a la carte dishes and a chef's tasting menu that reflects the city's diverse foodways.
Hernandez shares how the buttered onion tart came to be and why it remains a standout on Barbacana's evolving menu. barbacanatx.com
The Tart
Chef Christian Hernandez starts this dish with a pâte sucrée tart shell, but he gives it a savory edge. "We incorporate a house-made miso to bump up the savoriness," Hernandez says.
The Filling
Inside the tart is a careful layering of textures and flavors. "The filling includes a dark caramelized onion purée on the bottom," says Hernandez. "Above that are half caramelized yellow onions cooked in butter." The onions are sourced locally from small farms.
Sitting on top is jumbo lump crab, gently warmed in beurre monté. The idea for the buttered onion came from his time at Oxheart. "It was a very memorable dish while I was working there, and I suppose I always kept it in the back of my head and wanted to use that component in some way," he says.
The Toppings
Hernandez finishes the tart with Emmental cheese, celery leaf, and celery oil. "We also offer smoked trout roe as a supplemental topping for the tart," he adds.
The Sauce
Two sauces bring the tart together. "The foamy sauce on top of the tart is a black pepper sabayon," Hernandez explains. While black pepper, celery, and crab are classic, Hernandez wanted to take a different approach. "I wanted to introduce the black pepper in a more unique form that would complement the dish's textures while contrasting the rich flavor profile. The result is a tart with a smooth and creamy mouthfeel grounded by the buttery flavor and spiked by the piquant pepper."