I landed at the airport outside Tel Aviv, Israel with a sense of excitement. Since I was traveling with a group from Lord of Life Lutheran Church in West Chester, I was able to rely on the planning and expertise of our tour company to guide us through our adventure. I assumed we would spend most of our time seeing religious sites since Judaism, Islam, Christianity, Baha’i and several other faiths claim this as their home, but I was amazed to find that the area offers more culture and history to experience than the moniker “Holy Land” suggests.
Israel is a unique melting pot of cultures, where the confluence of Roman, Ottoman, Egyptian, Arab and Jewish traditions create a tapestry of history and heritage. Situated at the Southeast edge of the Mediterranean Sea, it is a tiny triangle of land connected to the African continent, the Arabian peninsula and Asia. Europe is a short distance across the sea.
On our first day, we stopped near the port city of Haifa, at Caesarea National Park. I could see the influence of Europe at its peak in this region—an entire Roman port, amphitheater, the remains of a palace and an aqueduct, none of which has been redeveloped in more than 2,000 years. I was fascinated by the lack of change in this sliver of land.
This was a stark contrast to one of our next stops, Tel Megiddo. Here, we could see several layers of civilization built one on top of the other. The earliest settlements at this site can be dated to around 9,000 years ago!
Our journey continued to holy sites in Nazareth, Capernaum,Tiberius and across the Palestinian border into Bethlehem. Everywhere in the region, newer buildings are built so that they preserve what is left of the ancient cities. It is easy to imagine ancient texts coming to life among the old stone roads.
On the Sea of Galilee, we took a wooden boat across the water and experienced the wind and mist as if we might have been throwing out nets to fish. At the Jordan River, pilgrims from various Christian denominations renewed their baptismal vows in the same waters where John the Baptist performed his baptisms.
We visited Masada, an ancient fortress perched on top of a mountain overlooking the Dead Sea. The views of the desert and the sea were breathtaking, and I couldn't help but marvel at the engineering feat of constructing a fortress in such a remote location.
And then there was the unforgettable experience of floating in the Dead Sea. The high salt concentration of the water made it easy to float effortlessly on the surface. The nearby gift shop sold countless spa products containing salt and minerals from the Dead Sea because of the supposed health benefits for your skin. Rather than shop, I chose to visit the humorously named “Lowest Bar in the World,” which sits 420 meters below sea level on the beach.
When we finally got to the capital city of Jerusalem, we entered through the Lion’s Gate, which faces the Mount of Olives. We explored the Old City and the Jewish Quarter, both of which offer a glimpse into the city's rich history. The ancient walls, narrow alleyways and religious landmarks like the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock made me feel as though I had stepped back in time. The Western Wall, a remnant of the ancient Jewish Temple, is a powerful place of pilgrimage for millions of people each year. The bustling market is full of vibrant colors and the aromas of spices and produce. At a music shop, I bought a regional stringed instrument called an oud, which is shaped like a fat-bellied guitar with a bent neck.
Throughout our journey, we enjoyed modern accommodations. We usually ate at least one meal per day at our hotel, sampling traditional cuisine from the region. The local hummus, shakshuka and falafel were all delicious. The food was even better as we explored the smaller establishments in the area, including street food vendors, local restaurants and bedouin tents.
On one of our last days in Israel, I visited Razzouk’s Tattoo Shop, which has been in business since 1300 AD, during the crusader era. I have never had a tattoo, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have a permanent memento of my trip. My artist was Nazir Razzouk, who is the 28th generation Razzouk in a long line of artists who have been marking pilgrims in the Holy Land. The tattoo on my arm is of the lion from the Lion’s Gate standing under an olive tree.
Seven days of trekking through these well-worn paths left me exhausted, but full of wonder and memories. I brought home a new fondness for all kinds of Mediterranean food, and an appreciation for how history and geography can shape a region and a wide-eyed traveler like me.
John Johns is the music director at Lord of Life Lutheran Church in West Chester. He toured the Holy Land with 18 others from the church in March, 2022. Lord of Life will return to the region with another community group in March, 2024.