Oishii is a Japanese word that means “delicious” or “tasty.” Sushi Sam’s, one of Kona’s premier sushi restaurants, could appropriately be renamed “Oishii Sushi.”
Since October 2020, Sam Segawa, the namesake and head chef of Sushi Sam’s, has consistently served “the freshest fish imaginable,” according to numerous testimonials from his regular customers. No matter what the fish is, whether it’s tuna, scallops, salmon, or sweet shrimp—in a roll or served as sashimi—it’s all “sea kissed.”
Repeat customers, who have lived most of their lives in sushi enclaves like Los Angeles and New York, told me that his toro, tuna, yellowtail and especially his salmon, rival anything they’ve eaten in big city sushi hangouts. Hardcore sushi enthusiasts rave about his uni and eel, both sea and freshwater.
Several regulars have told me that they sometimes order nothing but Sam’s special sashimi—a variety of fish of the day chosen by Sam—, a bowl of the perfectly cooked sushi rice and a glass (or two) of beer. “Because the fish is utterly delicious, this meal always feels fully satisfying,” says a customer who visits Sushi Sam’s every Friday.
The undisputed quality of Sam’s fish may be the primary draw for his loyal following—about 50% of Sam’s customers are returning Big Island residents—but it is not the only reason for his success.
Sam, who formerly worked as a sushi cook at the Kukio Beach Club and the Four Seasons Hotel in Hualalai, says he wanted to create a “warm and inviting” restaurant that was authentically Japanese—he was born and raised in Osaka, Japan. Yet, he also wanted a menu that included all the familiar names of rolls and other dishes that island visitors would see as “comfort food.”
The dish that manifests the fusion between authentic Japanese and contemporary cuisine is the thin sliced Hamachi appetizer. It is composed of perfectly-sized fish slices swimming in an ocean-colorful—think sea foam greens—ponzu and truffle oil sauce. A small piece of Serrano pepper tops each slice. The flavorful sauce and pepper are the perfect counterpoint to the liveliness of the fish. Nothing overpowers the fish. The sauce is at the service of the Hamachi.
I have seen many customers save the remaining ponzu and truffle oil sauce to use as a substitute for soy sauce when eating their sushi or sashimi. The sauce, by itself, is a taste extravaganza. “Your mouth delights in the utterly unique combinations of color and flavors,” says one adoring customer.
Connoisseurs of Japanese sushi restaurants say you can tell the difference between good and great chefs by how well they use vegetables to accent their fish. Two classic examples of this are the Ahi Tataki and the Avocado Bomb.
The Ahi Tataki is lightly seared ahi, drizzled with garlic aioli, served on a bed of shredded white daikon radishes and ponzu sauce. It is difficult to tell which is tastiest: the seared ahi, by itself, the daikon and sauce, by themselves, or all three together. I usually find daikon radishes to be bland, but these daikon radishes, along with the sauce, will open your taste buds to a whole new world of flavors.
The Avocado Bomb has thin slices of avocado interspersed into a mound of spicy ahi sitting on a bed of crunchy tempura. The avocado enhances the fish and vice versa. The crunchy tempura adds a satisfying texture and makes this dish a meal unto itself.
If you want to see how vegetables can be utterly satisfying standing alone, I highly recommend Sam’s Veggie Roll. Although a Veggie Roll may seem uneventful—avocado, cucumber, carrot, kaiware (radish shoots) and rice—what makes it unique is the addition of Shiso, a Southeast Asian herb from the mint family. The bracing taste of the Shiso leaf transforms ho-hum vegetables into delicacies.
Sam moved to O’ahu from California because he was a passionate surfer. A surfer knows there’s more to life than fish. Sam wanted to create a Japanese restaurant, not just a sushi one. For those who don’t like raw fish, no matter how fresh, Sam has the answer.
“Occasionally,” says one regular customer, “I go to Sam’s and have nothing but the spinach salad with tangy citrus dressing, the Japanese style potato salad and the rib eye steak—along with a glass of Japanese whiskey. The cozy but minimalist ambiance is the perfect setting for such a meal.”
The rib eye steak, hands down, is one of the best steaks served on the Big Island. It comes sliced on a sizzling, smoking hot plate, with a chunk of butter on top, and a variety of fresh vegetables surrounding the meat. You “finish” the cooking by stirring the butter into the steak and vegetables.
Another notable non-fish dish is the Teriyaki Chicken. Instead of breast meat, Sam uses dark meat, which creates a richer flavor and tenderness with a thicker, more savory sauce than any teriyaki I’ve tasted. Normally, I’m one of those who would never order chicken at any restaurant, let alone a sushi one, but this dish is transformative.
Although Sushi Sam’s does not have cocktails, it does have a highly curated list of Japanese whiskeys, beer, wine and sake. The Japanese whiskeys, four different types, are all worth a try. I personally prefer the KAIYO single 7-year whiskey.
Sam’s prices across the menu are fair, and the portions are generous. Most people spend between $50 and $100 per person and leave as full as they want.
I always leave Sushi Sam’s feeling like I’ve eaten a hearty meal that is as comforting as memories of my own mother’s home-cooking. Crazy to say this about a sushi restaurant, but it’s the truth.
Make reservations at (808) 796-3535, and learn more at SushiSamHawaii.com.
The difference between good and great chefs by how well they use vegetables to accent their fish. Two classic examples of this are the Ahi Tataki and the Avocado Bomb.
The Hamachi appetizer is composed of perfectly-sized fish slices swimming in an ocean-colorful—think sea foam greens—ponzu and truffle oil sauce.