It might be September, but if you've lived on the westside for any length of time, you know the "June gloom" marine layer can linger through much of the summer before a fall heat wave finally burns it away. And when the morning fog lifts, there's a new oceanfront dining destination serving buttery lobster rolls, tangy key lime pie, crisp cocktails and picture-perfect views.
West Side Oyster Club is the latest venture from Santa Monica locals Greg and Yunnie Morena, who also operate The Albright, a family-owned institution on the Santa Monica Pier since 1977. Yunnie's Korean American parents founded SM Pier Seafood on the original site before Greg and Yunnie took over the business and renamed it in 2013. West Side Oyster Club represents the next evolution of that family legacy.
The Morenas' newest venture occupies the former Blue Plate Oysterette space, originally created by restaurateur Jenny Morton, who also owns Blue Plate Taco just down the street on Ocean Avenue, as well as the wine shop and garden Divine Vintage Wine Bar & Shop on Montana Avenue.
"Jenny is one of those super creatives," says Greg. "She's among the best of us. She wanted to step back a little, and we stepped in. It always starts with a conversation among friends, but the stars aligned and it all made sense."
It also made sense to preserve the restaurant's original character. Los Angeles-based designer David Alvarez of Studio Alvarez retained the cozy, casual-meets-nautical aesthetic while honoring Morton's original vision and the classic seaside setting. The result is a welcoming community gathering place that reflects Southern California's surf and skate culture.
The Morenas layered in deeply personal touches. A gallery wall stretching above the banquettes is filled with repurposed nautical pieces and artifacts from Greg's life growing up in Santa Monica, including a Dogtown Skateboard—Greg is a co-owner of the iconic brand—his surfboard, family photos and memorabilia celebrating local history.
"My brother took that photo of The Albright, and that little pulley is from my dad's and brother's boat," Greg says while giving a tour of the restaurant. "This net is from Daniel Myers, who makes the stellar key lime pie in-house. His family's a big fishing family."
The beach-inspired interiors continue with natural woods accented by a palette of crisp whites and blues. A mirrored walk-up menu allows guests to order lobster rolls, fish and chips, or splurge on Grand Cru caviar to enjoy as a sunset picnic in Palisades Park or on the pier. Caviar service is offered in three sizes and comes with crème fraîche, potato chips and chives. "It's a casual seafood place, but you can add caviar—and even get caviar to go. That's the dream," Greg says.
The menu ranges from a raw bar featuring East and West Coast oysters to towering seafood platters, shrimp and chips, lobster rolls and the restaurant's signature clam chowder served in a San Francisco sourdough bread bowl. "We got to bring in all the things that we love, and a lot of the classics from the pier,” Greg says. Among his personal favorites are the New England-style fried oysters with chips and the North Shore garlic shrimp. "My wife and I go to Hawaii all the time. I love the North Shore and the food truck scene—it's paradise,” he says. “There’s an incredible shrimp truck called Giovanni’s that serves a rich garlic sauce over rice. They do peel-and-eat shrimp, but our version is peeled so you can order it for lunch and still shake somebody's hand afterward." Another insider favorite is the off-menu Caesar salad prepared with fried oysters, "Zoe's Way." "This is one of my wife's dearest friends, Zoe Winkler," Greg says. "She came in one day, was eating a Caesar salad, and said, 'I want to try oysters on it.'" A new dish was born on the spot.
Greg also credits his fashion background for shaping his approach to hospitality. "I love the behind-the-scenes part of the restaurant business," he says. "It's what I loved about fashion." Before entering the restaurant industry, Greg served as COO of Undefeated and CFO of The Hundreds, while Yunnie spent 18 years at Fred Segal in Santa Monica. "The creative people are my favorite, and I love the idea of building things over time. In fashion, the design doesn't hit the shelf for a year, but food is ready in 15 minutes."
The cocktails arrive even faster, and the outdoor patio provides the perfect setting for sunset drinks. Favorites include the Palisades Sunset with chipotle-infused tequila, lime and pomegranate; the White Sandy Beach with rum, lime, grapefruit, maraschino and almond; and the West Side Spritz featuring vodka, cucumber, strawberry, Aperol and sparkling wine. Another crowd favorite is the oyster shooter, made with house-made spicy Bloody Mary mix and a choice of vodka or gin.
Greg acknowledges that the restaurant business can be trial by fire, but he's grateful for the opportunities their family business provides to experiment with new ideas. One of those is Yunnie's successful charcuterie company, KimChi Avocado, which has since expanded into candy boards through Sweet Chi Candy Company. Greg has also partnered with Uncle Paulie's Deli and recently opened a new location near Dodger Stadium.
Together, the Morenas continue to make their mark as entrepreneurs, community leaders and stewards of the Santa Monica Pier. Greg led The Albright to become the first certified sustainable business on the Pier, earning both the SQA Grand Prize and the Stewardship of the Natural Environment Award while helping divert more than one million pounds of organic waste from landfills each year. He also serves on the board of Heal the Bay and oversees an aquaculture program at Santa Monica College. "We're going to have to figure out how to live on this planet," Greg says. "I believe that action is the key—and seafood."
Greg and Yunnie first met as children growing up in Santa Monica. "She moved next door when I was 12. It took us a while to figure it out, but we got together when we were 27. We've been together for 37 years." Today, the couple lives on Santa Monica's north side with their two sons. "Not many people who grew up in a city of millions can say they married the boy next door and went on to carry forward a family legacy business that had been part of the community for more than 40 years," says Yunnie. "It all sounds very small-town—and honestly, that's exactly what opening this new seafood shack by the sea has made Santa Monica feel like again. From hanging our YMCA camp rags on the dining room walls, to employing local high school students, to already greeting our regulars by name, it feels like we're bringing back a piece of the Santa Monica we grew up with." Greg echoes the sentiment. "This is how we rejuvenate our souls. We have to take chances and do projects that make us feel good, give back and pay homage to our history and heritage. That's what West Side Oyster Club is all about."
West Side Oyster Club
1355 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica
310-310-8861
westsideoysterclub.com
"It feels like we're bringing back a piece of the Santa Monica we grew up with."