It lures you in…the mystery of it. It has been described as the collision and collusion of old and new, east and west, Islam and Christianity. It’s one of the most fascinating cities on earth. Istanbul.
I recently made my second visit to this incredible city after 15 years away. I had forgotten its allure – the sights, sounds, the smells and riveting history. The only city straddling two continents, it blends the cultures of Europe and Asia into one fascinating, unforgettable experience.
Istanbul, formerly Constantinople, has been the seat of two of history's greatest empires, the Byzantine and Ottoman. During the height of their power, these two kingdoms stretched over three continents. They created long-lasting cultural norms and mighty military institutions while simultaneously constructing architectural wonders that still stand today. The city is the cradle of Orthodox Christianity, while also home to the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque (500s), Blue Mosque (1600s), Topkapi Palace (home of the Ottoman Sultan), the cisterns built by Justinian I, and many more iconic monuments.
Istanbul originated as a settlement in the seventh century BC. In the 300s AD, Emperor Constantine I relocated his realm’s capital from Rome and founded the city of Constantinople, giving rise to the 1,100-year Byzantine Empire. The city was pivotal in advancing Orthodox Christianity until the Ottoman conquest in 1453, which turned it into an Islamic stronghold, blending two of the world’s greatest empires and cultures. The modern Republic of Turkey though was formed in 1923 under the direction of the national hero, Mustafa Antaturk. What you see today is the result of 1,700 years of melting.
One of the most intriguing aspects of this unique city is the juxtaposition of Islam and Christianity. Several active mosques, including the fifth-century Kariye Mosque, were originally constructed as churches and retain mosaics of Jesus, Mary and Christian prophets. So the Christian symbols can remain undisturbed, the mosaics are covered during Islam’s five daily calls to prayer.
This is also true at the Hagia Sophia. The Byzantine architectural marvel transitioned from almost a thousand years as one of the world’s largest cathedrals to a mosque during the Ottoman Empire, to a history museum in 1934, and back to a mosque and historical museum under the current political administration.
I found this coexistence of religions to be both insightful and thought provoking – another unique aspect of this memorable city.
While over 90 percent of Turkey’s people are Muslim, the Christian minority is vibrant. The small but historically important cohort continues to celebrate Christmas, and the tourist areas of Istanbul are decorated with lights and holiday decorations as the day approaches. The Church of St. Anthony of Padua in the district of Beyoğlu hosts world famous musicians during the season and is a well-known destination for celebrating Christmas.
However, Istanbul’s more popular holiday is New Year’s Eve. Interestingly, some of the traditions we consider strictly Christian are also part of the Turkish celebration of the New Year. Muslims erect and decorate a tree, placing gifts under it for distribution. Noel Baba, the Turkish version of Santa Claus, brings presents on New Year’s Eve.
The gift-giving does not replace the more common international traditions for the day, though. Fireworks light up the skies over the Bosporus Strait and residents enjoy all-night street parties. Typical foods include turkey, chicken and local dishes. Many revelers wear something red to bring good luck in their romantic lives.
While Istanbul does not have seasonal holiday markets, it does offer famous bazaars for shopping year-round. I visited both the Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Spice Market. When you visit, be prepared to bargain – it’s expected! You can spend hours exploring the textiles, the jewelry, the mounds of spices and ceramics. I, of course, talked myself into buying a beautiful handmade rug to decorate my home. I had forgotten from my previous visit how much fun it was shop in such an energetic atmosphere while I lost myself in a maze of stalls and exotic products from across the globe.
Istanbul’s wine and food scene delivered another wonderful surprise on my second visit. The city abounds with upscale restaurants and bars, many of them rooftop. One favorite is Roof Mezze 360, where I dined on fresh fish and delicious Turkish white wines, while enjoying an incredible view of the Bosporus Strait. Another amazing restaurant in the same area is Olde 1772. Drop by for tea or a glass of wine, and the ambiance will entice you to stay for dinner.
On the other side of the Bosporus Strait, stop in for another glass of Turkish wine on the rooftop of the Peninsula Hotel, where the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace serve as your backdrop. To complete your food tour, I highly suggest trying some of the street offerings, especially the roasted corn and chestnuts. And no day is complete without baklava or Turkish Delight, the national dessert, enjoyed with tea or coffee. I have to admit, I made sure to partake on a daily basis.
As I got ready to depart Istanbul, I was thankful to have once again experienced this city of contrasts thriving side by side. It’s no small thing to walk the same streets as so many great historical figures and to stand on the sites of world-shaping events, both ancient and modern.
And to top it off, I made some new friends in my tour guides, Taha and Ali. I highly recommend these two young men! They even asked their mothers to prepare a picnic for us to enjoy under the ancient city walls (www.istanbulsecrets.com).
For this lady, saying farewell did not mean goodbye but rather until we meet again.
Istanbul, formerly Constantinople, was founded by the first Christian Roman Emperor, Constantine the Great - one of the most important emperors in Roman history.