Sommelier Carlin Karr is the wine and beverage director for Frasca Hospitality Group. She not only leads a team of 10 full-time sommeliers, but she’s also responsible for all the beverage programs at four restaurants in Boulder and Denver. She sits down with us to answer our questions about a wine that’s been having a moment.
Can you explain what orange wine is? What makes it orange?
Carlin Karr: Simply put, it is the skins that make orange wines orange. “Orange”, or macerated wine, is wine made from white wine grapes with the skins in contact with the juice during fermentation, just like red wine. In contrast, traditional white wine is made from white grapes, but prior to fermentation, the grapes are gently pressed off of their skins, separating the skins from the flesh, therefore little to no color or tannin is imparted in the wine. This process is the same as most rose wine, but rose wine is made from red grapes. So from a winemaking standpoint, orange wine is the red wine of white grapes and rose wine is the white wine of red grapes.
What does it taste like?
CK: The flavor of a given orange wine depends on how it’s made, the grape varieties used and how long the juice is in contact with the skins (or maceration length). Often, orange wines are more concentrated, with ripe stone fruit and rich citrus flavors as well as earthy undertones. The best examples smell like peach or orange marmalade but taste completely dry on the palate, with no residual sugar. The time spent on its skins provides tannic structure to the wine, much like red wine.
What does it mean when we see the label “natural” on a wine bottle?
CK: The term actually means nothing, technically speaking. Natural wine is more of a cultural movement without any parameters or guidelines. The core and most common ethos of ‘natural’ wine is “nothing added and nothing removed” — meaning no addition of sulfur, fining agents, etc. and no filtration.
Though well-intentioned, these wines if not made with precision and great care most often have flaws. When making wines with little to no control, mistakes can happen. And since economics play into winemaking, some wines get released to the public that could be considered flawed (or in the least bit hiding varietal character and a sense of place). Many natural producers have increased in quality dramatically over just a few vintages, however, it’s important to realize that “natural” has nothing to do with farming standards or requirements, and only refers to winemaking.
Another important factor is that sulfur is a natural byproduct of winemaking, so no sulfur wine is nearly impossible. Sulfur is critical to preserving wine, stabilizing wine and making wine consistent for fluctuations in temperature like making the trip overseas or just across states. Sulfur is also found in so much of the foods we consume.
Is orange wine a trend or here to stay like rosé? Why do you think it’s gained such popularity?
CK: I think it is both a bit of a trend and here to stay. The funky, poorly made versions are likely to pass but the best versions are here to stay.
Interested in Trying Orange Wine?
“Orange wine pairs well with white meats like pork and roast chicken, prosciutto, speck, green olives, as well as leafy greens which are usually tricky to pair with wine like kale, broccoli, and collard greens,” - Carlin
Look for orange/macerated wines at both Frasca and Pizzeria Alberico.