I recently spent nine glorious days in Sicily, one of the most intriguing parts of the world. Though the island has technically been part of Italy since 1861, inhabitants are quick to point out they are not Italian but proudly, forever Sicilian.
This island is truly the melting pot of the Mediterranean, a collision of old and new, Eastern and Western. Its storied history sweeps you from ancient Greece to the might of the Roman Empire, from the exoticism of the Arab invasion to the chivalric knights of the Middle Ages to the modern Mafia.
Starting in gritty but fascinating Palermo, we took a street food tour with Streaty Tours. The markets felt like the souks of North Africa! The sights, smells and sounds spoke of another world, not entirely Western.
As any visitor should, we sampled cannoli, which originated on the island. The traditional bakers use sheep’s milk and cover the pastries with either chocolate chips or the ever-present pistachio. It was one of the many culinary joys we couldn’t turn down in the markets!
The Monreale Cathedral is one of Palermo’s most impressive sites. Founded by the Normans in 1172, the cathedral is filled with glittering mosaics that mesmerize with their storytelling. It was like no other cathedral I have visited in Europe. Mass is still held every week—more than 800 years and counting!
Next, we traveled by private car (excursionssicily.com) south to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, built when the Greeks ruled the island in the eighth century BC. At one time, Sicily was home to the second-largest population of Greeks outside mainland Greece. The area’s ancient ruins leave visitors marveling at the engineering ingenuity of humankind all those centuries ago.
We discovered the best view of the ruins as we ended our day with dinner on the terrace of the Villa Athena Resort. The restaurant provides live music and a mouthwatering menu against the backdrop of the flickering temple lights.
From Agrigento, we went to the eerie but beautiful Mt. Etna, where a 2003 eruption left a devastating trail. Small eruptions still occur today, covering the land in black volcanic ash reminiscent of a moonscape. The ash produces perfect soil for wine and olive oil production, so we spent a day indulging in tastings and lunch at the Murgot and Gambino wineries.
Our last stop was Taormina, familiar to fans of the “The White Lotus,” the town was a seaside playground for the rich and famous in its heyday. Today, tourists embark on shopping and tours during the day and spend magical evenings in the piazzas, where musicians play while families and friends socialize.
Taormina’s culinary scene is impressive, as is all of Sicily's. In the high season, the island boasts over 500 restaurants; in winter, only five remain. I attended a cooking class at one of those five, Osteria Santa Domenica (osteriasantadomenica.com). It was a fun pastime that left me with a delicious lunch of homemade pasta, fresh ingredients, and local Mt. Etna wines!
We also visited the famous Greek amphitheater in Taormina. Built during the seventh century BC, it's still in use today. Viewers witness concerts and operas with the ever-present Mt. Etna looming in the background.
When you visit Taormina, and I hope you will, I suggest lodging at the Hotel Grand Timeo. You can enjoy a cocktail from its terrace and watch molten rock spew from the volcano.
Sicily is a romantic, beautiful, exotic confluence of history and culture. It stole my heart.
Sicily, I will be back someday.
Sicily is a romantic, beautiful, exotic confluence of history and culture.