There’s something timeless about a table built around the sea. For generations, Italian families have gathered on Christmas Eve to celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes—seven seafood dishes shared in gratitude and abundance.
A Tradition Anchored in the Sea
Here in Maine, the tradition takes on its own flavor, blending old-world recipes with the best of our local waters. While Italian families might feature anchovies, eel, or salt cod, Maine’s coastal cooks have adapted the menu to reflect their own catch.
At Browne Trading Company in Portland, that often means oysters, diver scallops, and white fish like hake or monkfish. “We work with restaurants like Natalie’s at Camden Harbour Inn to source everything from local oysters and scallops to monkfish and hake,” says Jesse Shaw, a wholesale sales representative at Browne Trading Company. “True diver scallops are only available for about a month—from mid-December to mid-January. They’re limited, so they feel extra special on a holiday menu.”
He also sees a lot of baccalà on menus—salt cod that’s soaked for several days before it’s cooked—and calls it a staple for most feasts. “In a true Italian kitchen, baccalà has to be on it,” Shaw says. “Usually fried, along with some kind of white fish like whiting.”
Depending on the season, Browne Trading Company also supplies monkfish, pollock, and halibut right off the Portland Fish Exchange. And when Maine’s lakes freeze, some cooks even add smelts to the lineup—tiny, local fish fried and served as a starter.
However it’s built, the Maine version of the feast still celebrates what the Italian original always has: the sea, the season, and the people gathered around the table.
Maine Feast Playbook
Shaw helps restaurants build multi-course menus for the season, but his advice for home cooks is simple: don’t overthink it. “Seven different fish can feel like a lot,” he says. “Mix it up. Use frozen shrimp or whiting, tinned seafood for easy appetizers, and save your fresh catch for two or three standout dishes.”
Planning ahead makes all the difference. The baccalà—salt cod—needs to soak for several days. “That’s not one to leave for the last minute,” Shaw adds. He encourages hosts to keep the meal balanced: a few small starters, a warm pasta or stew, and one showpiece dish like a whole fish. “A salt-baked bronzino or sablefish looks beautiful on the table,” he says. “It’s communal and tastes amazing.”
For those who want to simplify, Browne Trading Company makes it easy. The market offers smoked salmon, caviar, tinned seafood, and filleted-to-order fish. Beyond the seafood, what makes Browne Trading Co. unique is its expertise. “Most of us are former chefs,” Shaw says. “When someone brings us a menu, we’ll dissect it, help them find what they need, and suggest substitutions if something’s not in season.”
He also reminds people the feast is meant to be joyful, not perfect. “Have fun,” he says. “Do as much as you can ahead of time, and let the fish speak for itself.”
Tips from Browne Trading Company
Plan early: Order specialty items a week ahead. Soak baccalà two to three days in advance.
Mix your menu: Combine fresh, frozen, and tinned seafood for balance and ease.
Highlight a few stars: Focus on two or three main dishes—like scallops, stew, or whole fish.
Serve family style: Big platters invite conversation and connection.
Pair with bubbles: Sparkling wine, crisp whites, or Maine-brewed pilsners work beautifully.
“In a true Italian kitchen, baccalà has to be on (the menu)...along with some kind of white fish like whiting.”