When we're swirling that beautiful white or red wine over dinner, perhaps with friends, a good conversation is to contemplate the good and bad fortunes of the lifecycle of that little cluster of grapes on its way to becoming good wine.
With the blankets and waves of smoke creating misery for us all this summer, it can also wreak havoc in the vineyard and ruin a particular vintage. California fires are a good example of the associated mayhem.
Picture that cluster of grapes and how it morphs from little buds to nice, plump, juicy grapes ready for harvest. That little cluster has to run a gauntlet of nastiness from Mother Nature for about 120 to 180 days. Hazards to avoid? Frost, hail, mold, birds, insects, hot wind, blight, and rain at harvest. The vineyard lifecycle is over, for the season; the winery and cellar vintage is just beginning.
Smoke taint can be subtle, or a serious vintage-killing flaw. Our local winemakers have shared this observation: smoke influence this year was likely negligible, since much of the local crop hadn't reached véraison yet, meaning much less danger. Véraison is a French term for when wine grapes start to change color, when hard, green, sour berries soften, swell with sugar and turn red, golden or purple. Sugar levels increase, acidity drops and cell walls relax, making the fruit plump and elastic.
Fortunately, the heavy smoke met very tough resistance here. Véraison was just starting, so our Idaho grapes made it through essentially unscathed, thanks in large part to the careful attention our local winemakers pay to timing and conditions all season long. Let's hope for no smoke in September, when vulnerability increases.
Winemakers love discussing the whole viticultural process, front to back. If you look up "jack of all trades," winemaker goes to the top of the list of really interesting people to talk to.
Until the next weather report, let's get out into wine country and enjoy our Idaho winemakers and wine. Cheers!