February is the month for romantics; order your flowers and candy now.
But for something really special, plan a summer trip to my candidate for the most romantic destination in the country—Mackinac (pronounced Mackinaw) Island. A beautiful setting, no traffic noises, a relaxed pace, sweet summer breezes and an air of an earlier time offer an out-of-this-busy-world getaway.
There are no cars on Mackinac Island (a few emergency vehicles are the exception). Most visitors arrive by ferry although a few small planes fly onto the island. That’s where the 21st century ends—transportation-wise.
So how do people get around? To use an antiquated expression—shank’s mare (walking) is primary. Horses and bicycles are available to rent; taxis are horse-drawn.
I’ll admit, if it hadn’t been for an old movie—1980’s Somewhere in Time–this little dot in the waters between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron wouldn’t have been on my bucket list. The four-Kleenex story of a time-traveling romance between oh-so-handsome Christopher Reeve and glamorous Jane Seymour was filmed here. And, perhaps almost as big a star was the magnificent Grand Hotel.
The first European settlers on the island were Catholic missionaries who came to serve the Native Americans living there in 1670. They were followed by French soldiers who established a fort on the mainland. French fur traders were frequent visitors.
The French were replaced by the British, who moved operations from the mainland to a new fort on the island. Occupation of the fort flipped between British and American forces until, following the War of 1812, the stars and stripes again flew over the fortification.
The fur trade flourished, crowned, in the 1820s by the establishment of the American Fur Trading Company by John Jacob Astor.
Steamboats, becoming more common on the Great Lakes, increased trade and encouraged curious tourists. The island became a refuge for urban visitors wanting to escape the summer heat of the cities.
In 1887, with winter snow still on the ground, work was started on a large hotel. It took hundreds of workers and 1.5 million feet of lumber, but the work was completed in 90 days and the Grand Hotel opened on July 10.
One hundred and thirty-seven years later, guests arriving by ferry are still awed at the site of the elegant hotel. Situated on a rise, its long front porch (said to be the longest in the world) is lined with brilliant red geraniums. Tall, white columns and bright yellow awnings bring oohs and ahhs from approaching visitors.
The interior glows with colors, thanks to the genius of the late Carlton Varney. The eclectic mix of color and pattern may seem dated—but guests wouldn’t have it any other way.
Walking into our room was like entering a floral fantasy. Bed draperies and a valence gave a regal look to our bed. The headboard featured the hotel’s signature geraniums.
The hotel has planned programs, afternoon tea and a variety of activities, including bike rentals, carriage rides, lawn games and golf (one course uses horse-drawn carts between holes).
The Esther Williams swimming pool has been updated with more features for families, plus an adults-only area. For those of you who are too young to remember Esther Williams, she was a champion swimmer-turned-movie-star in the 1940s and ’50s. The pool at the Grand was used in her 1947 movie, This Time for Keeps. The pool, previously named “Paul Bunyan’s Footprint,” was renamed in her honor.
Probably the best advertisement for the hotel came in 1980 with Somewhere in Time. It’s still shown regularly on the island.
Somewhere in Time Weekend at the hotel is a special event during the last month of the season—this year from Oct. 3-5. You can reserve a package, which includes breakfast and dinner daily in the Grand Dining Room, tours, programs, a vintage dress parade and, possibly, meeting Jane Seymour. Check packages on the website: GrandHotel.com.
While the Grand is my favorite, but very expensive, choice, husband Jack and I have stayed at several other accommodations. Metivier Inn, built in 1877, is a beautiful Victorian home with lovely gardens and a spacious front porch. The house is furnished in French and English style and breakfast is included.
Cloghaun Bed and Breakfast was built in 1884 by the present owner’s great-grandparents. Family photos and documents add interest to the history. Rooms are furnished with 19th-century antiques and a hot breakfast and afternoon treats make this a nice stay, too.
Bay View Inn, built in 1891, has been in the owner’s family for over a century. It was renovated and expanded in 1990. From one side of the house, the bay views are stunning; from the other, the fort on the hill is a highlight. In addition to an excellent breakfast and afternoon cookies, an evening dessert adds to the inn’s attractions.
The island has a circumference of approximately eight miles—perfect for a bike ride—with great scenery. The interior woods, especially in spring, are a delight of trillium and forget-me-nots. A carriage tour will take you by fabulous 1800s “cottages” built by captains of industry.
A tour of Fort Mackinac is a must. All the buildings are original and in use up until 1895. Visitors can enjoy rifle and cannon demonstrations and walking tours with costumed interpreters. For an extra charge, you can fire the morning cannon yourself.
A Butterfly House and several historical museums offer other options. Downtown shopping is popular—with fudge being the most highly prized souvenir.
My favorite time to visit is June, with the highlight being the annual Lilac Festival. The island’s ancient bushes grow several stories high with limbs the size of tree trunks. The aroma is heavenly.
For a romantic and peaceful getaway, where the loudest sound is the clip-clop of horses’ hooves, you can’t beat Mackinac Island. FYI: MackinacIsland.org
Somewhere in Time Weekend at the hotel is a special event during the last month of the season—this year from Oct. 3-5.