Mesa Provisions is not pretentious. In fact, the restaurant's name says it all: “Mesa”, which means table in Spanish, and “provisions”, meaning “we provide for the table”. Restaurant owner Steve Riley’s vision is to be at the crossroads of fine dining and mom-and-pop restaurants. He aims for carefully curated meals you’d expect at a fancy restaurant with a welcoming environment you’d find at a family business.
Riley says, “We are a very small restaurant.” At its fullest capacity, Mesa Provisions can seat about 80 guests. Riley enjoys the restaurant's manageable size, which ensures the quality of food and a high level of customer service.
The chef pays close attention to the details. Riley’s goal is to serve a good meal cooked properly every time. Mesa Provisions' motto is to serve great food inspired by the Southwest in a comfortable and casual environment. The public seems to agree. Riley says, “It's really great that we have very solid regulars who come all the time. They enjoy what we are doing.”
The restaurant has been open for the past two and a half years and is already drawing a lot of attention. Riley takes on two roles as restaurant owner and chef. Now, as a self-taught chef, he has earned a spot in the finals for the coveted James Beard awards. He plans on attending the awards ceremony in Chicago this summer. “It's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” says Riley who found out about the nomination when people kept tagging him on social media. He says, “I was pretty stoked! I’ve been working in the kitchen for a very long time, and to be recognized by your peers on a national level is amazing. It just reiterates all that hard work that you put in for a long time, and someone has recognized it.”
Riley was born and raised in Albuquerque. He says, “Santa Fe gets more recognition food-wise, but I think Albuquerque is starting to have a bit more recognition.” Mesa Provisions now gets to be a part of that honor. Riley says, “What I'm trying to do here is different… going against the idea of the white tablecloth, fine dining, establishment. Food does not have to always be pretentious or stuffy. It can be fun, enjoyable, and approachable to everybody.”
Since the restaurant opened, the green chili cheddar biscuits and smoked half chicken with beans and tortillas have been fan favorites. Riley believes his food is “a little bit different… you won’t find it anywhere.” Experimenting at home with different flavors and techniques is Riley’s tried-and-true way to add new items to his constantly evolving menu. He says, “I cook what I want to eat, basically. I love to eat and always seek out new and different cuisines.”
Riley’s confidence in cooking came out of necessity. He says, “The first time I thought I could cook was when my mom worked the graveyard shift. So I would make dinner for me and my brother.” He was only 14 at the time. Later, he landed his first restaurant job as a dishwasher. Even then, he knew he liked working in a restaurant.
He later moved to Los Angeles for 17 years to broaden his horizons and culinary experience. Eventually, Riley moved back to Albuquerque. “I wanted to come home to Albuquerque and live a simpler life.” Now, he enjoys Albuquerque’s big-city feel with a close-knit community. “It's my home, and it has that feeling of this is the place where I want to be.”
Opening his restaurant has shown the chef how supportive the Albuquerque community can be. Riley says, “Every day since I was nominated, people have come into the restaurant and said congratulations, and we are so proud!” He believes that with a packed dining room and a James Beard nomination, “My crew is just as much responsible for this as I am.”
Some may say Albuquerque has a big gap between higher-end restaurants and mom-and-pop options. Mesa Provisions is trying to be in the middle of that. Riley hopes diners will feel relaxed and comfortable at his restaurant. The goal is to eat, have a good time with their friends, and enjoy something they may not usually enjoy. “I hope they walk away with a different view on food and dining in general.”
At 6 a.m. the Mesa Provisions’ crew is already hard at work preparing for dinner service. Riley says, “Everything we can make in-house is done here.” With long hours and a popular restaurant to run, Riley’s next goal is to “get a vacation.” Lucky for him, he has a James Beard event to attend in Chicago. It may be a working vacation, but it is a new and welcomed experience.
Mesa Provisions can be booked out for two weeks or more, so reservations are recommended. Visit Mesa Provisions at 3120 Central Avenue. www.mesaprovisions.com
“The first time I thought I could cook was when my mom worked the graveyard shift. So I would make dinner for me and my brother.”
“I wanted to come home to Albuquerque and live a simpler life. It's my home, and it has that feeling of this is the place where I want to be.”