Men, are you tired of fashion blogs littered with promotional tie-ins and dubious trends? (I dare any of you to wear a boutonnière in front of a human.) I bet. Realistically, though, you’ll need some new clothes after we collectively burn our sweatpants.
One of the great things about having a local master tailor, who customizes in everything from tuxes to accessories, is his direct connection to clothing trends. Stephen Kempson visits the epicenters of style every year and comes back with fabrics, cuts, and ideas straight from the source. What does this mean for you? For one, you can read this and not get caught Googling men’s style guides.
Comfort, Not Casual:
It’s an interesting amalgam of style and comfort. Younger men are wearing suits, and not only when they’re getting married or on trial for insider trading. Men are more fit than their 1980s counterparts and want a slimmer cut. However, they also insist on comfort.
“There’s a movement toward fabric with more stretch; clothing with shape but as comfortable as jogging pants,” explains Stephen. Traditional mills in Italy, such as Zegna and Cerruti, are spinning more performance-like fabrics to create suits that stretch but retain their shape. In addition, Stephen likes to cut a higher arm hole, allowing the garment more flexibility.
(Interesting side note: The cost of fabric is commensurate to the length of the yarn. These yarns determine the strength of the wool. Higher grade wools can be spun tighter so fabrics have a natural stretch and/or may be water repellant or even waterproof. This spinning technology obviates a spray process that wears off with dry-cleaning.)
Color and Pattern:
If and when we crawl from our homes and our eyes adjust to sunlight, “Men will want to try something more adventurous,” says Stephen. “We’ve already seen a big move back to color, larger plaids and window pane patterns.”
The colorful pocket square is making a comeback for those who want to be color-adventurous but have the common sense to not experiment with a boutonnière.
Double-Breasted Jacket:
I was surprised, too. But Stephens explains, “I saw it two years ago in Italy. I made a couple of them for myself this season. It’ll take another couple of seasons before it catches on, but it will.” He tightens the cut and uses performance fabric.
No matter what our circumstances, style never goes out of style.
Stephen Kempson London
5 Post Rd W, Westport, CT 06880
StephenKempson.com