In 2023, Peggy Szelinski came on as Magics’ manager from her time at Merriman’s Waimea. Szelinski was looking for a challenge and desired to help shape and grow something new; that’s when Magics invited her in. “I remember standing out by the rock wall and all the staff coming up and introducing themselves to me … It felt like family. It felt like home,” Szelinski says.
However, she knew she couldn’t do this on her own, so she brought in Brian Christman — an executive chef with years of experience in New York, Chicago, and all around California — whom she had worked with previously. Burnt out from corporate takeovers that suck the creative soul from restaurants, Brian was also ready for a change and moved to the Big Island to take on the role of operational manager, acting as the glue between the kitchen and the business.
One of his first goals was to create and reintroduce a dinner menu featuring “classic dishes elevated with the taste of the islands,” Brian says. He aimed to help Magics find its niche on the Kona Coast. The second was to bring on new head chef, Jason Criswell. Originally from Hawai’i, Criswell had been working on the mainland and was enthusiastic about returning to the islands and his culinary roots.
The resulting menu is a fusion with many of the dishes having Italian influence and all ingredients being sourced fresh, not frozen, and local when possible. I had the privilege of sampling three of them.
Burrata Salad With Grilled Mango
A sensory explosion. The tangy balsamic hits with a punch amid the silky burrata, fresh tomato, and crunchy macadamias. Just the faintest hint of bitterness from the market greens perfectly offset the elevated sweetness of the grilled mango. Every bite is delightful, but this is truly one of those dishes where you want a bit of everything to fully enjoy the combination of flavors. Even missing just one element is enough to appreciate the thought put in by the chefs who created the dish.
Pineapple Fried Rice
Surprising. Though I went in expecting a standard fried rice with sweet pineapple, the first taste filled my mouth with a pleasant, unanticipated warmth from the yellow curry. Plump, firm edamame added a satisfying bite to this normally vegan dish. I, however, had one of the protein options in the form of Crispy Pork Belly. As opposed to being fried, Magics marinates their pork belly for 24 hours before drying and coating it in a salt crust, which is removed just before cooking. With the flavors of Korean BBQ, it adds a sweet richness that pairs well with the spices of the rice.
Seared Scallops With Lemon Parmesan Risotto
As a scallop lover, this dish was a highlight. The flavor of the fresh scallops is allowed to shine with only a sprinkle of sea salt for seasoning. The creamy Parmesan of the risotto instantly coated the mouth and finished with a subtle but undeniable lemon hint that makes you crave more. A pinch of black pepper cuts through the rich risotto, enhancing the flavors; and when you put the two elements together with the lemon, garlic, and herb oil that garnishes the plate, the result is decadent. It does not scream Hawai'i, but it does scream for another bite.
My one disappointment was being unable to try the out-of-season Ulu — breadfruit — fries, a specialty of Magics, and not something you see on many menus. But with the season typically beginning in September, that just means I’ll have to go back and try this unique offering soon!
Learn more at MagicsBeachGrill.com.
Classic dishes elevated with the taste of the islands.