As much as I can still enjoy the nostalgia of the ubiquitous Old El Paso Crunchy Taco Dinner Kit, I’ve developed specific standards about tacos over the years. The tortillas must be warm, whether griddled or steamed, until pliable. Nothing is worse than tortillas that break or fall apart during the first bite. There must be fresh herbs, acidity from the lime, heat from the salsa, and some crunchy elements. Of course, the most crucial aspect is the filling, which I have sought to represent a range of styles with this list.
Tres Leches Cakes Flor
863 Broadway | South Portland
Assorted Tacos
Though they specialize in their namesake, the tacos and tortas at this no-frills South Portland spot are not to be missed. The carne enchilada, made with rich, spiced beef, and the carnitas (pork lovingly braised in its own fat) are standouts. The house-made hot sauces are superlative. Suppose you choose to load up on the habanero. In that case, you will definitely appreciate the generous sides of fresh cucumber and radish.
Tu Casa Restaurant Salvadorena
70 Washington Ave | Portland
Taquitos de Lengua
I have been eating at Tu Casa for 20 years, and if they were ever to close, I would move out of Portland. Though famous for their melty, delicious pupusas, most menu items—including their impossibly rich yet simple white rice—are solid. My favorite is their tongue tacos. Don’t knock tongue if you haven’t tried it, as I believe most people would simply think it was excellent roast beef if you didn’t tell them what it was. Another solid option to add tongue to is the Enchiladas Salvadorenas, a crispy tostada served with rice and beans.
Tostones Café
337 Ocean House Road | Cape Elizabeth
Taco Sampler
Located in a Cape Elizabeth strip mall, Tostones Café is probably best known for its assortment of incredible arepas. The taco sampler comes with various carnitas, grilled chicken, and my favorite: chicharrones (essentially fried pork belly). Bring a group, order as much of the menu as humanly possible, and wash it down with an ocean of Don Julio.
El Rodeo
147 Western Avenue | South Portland
Tacos de Birria
Despite the fact that it's near the mall (and is located in an old Outback Steakhouse), El Rodeo is legit. Their birria tacos—a cross between a taco, grilled cheese sandwich, and Chicago-style Italian beef—come with hot sauce and a rich braising liquid for dipping. I highly recommend wearing dark colors if you plan on ordering them. Also not to be missed is the table side guacamole and queso with chorizo.
Lenora
2 Portland Square | Portland
Mushroom Dorados
Easily one of the more decadent vegetarian options in the city, these tacos feature warm, house-made tortillas, roasted mushrooms, queso fresco, jalapeno, and burnt corn crema. Amid a full selection of meat and fish tacos, these are my favorite on the menu. It is imperative to have a bowl of chili con queso to get things started.
About the Author:
In 2009, Joe Ricchio founded Portland Food Coma, a blog dedicated to food, hedonism, wine, and excess. For over a decade, he maintained regular posts as food editor for Maine magazine, Down East, and Decor Maine while producing freelance work for clients including Bon Appetit, Vice, the Food Network, and Conde Nast Traveler. Ricchio grew his Food Coma brand to include a travel series (Food Coma TV), the Food Coma Podcast, and the stand-and-stir series Food Coma: My Seventies Kitchen. He has made national TV appearances on Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern and the late Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. Ricchio resides in Maine and travels wherever work takes him.
The tortillas must be warmed until pliable—nothing is worse than tortillas that fall apart.