In the heart of downtown resides a staple of Missoula’s bar scene known as The Rhino. And at the heart of The Rhino is owner Kevin Head. Kevin came to Missoula as a wildlife biology major at UM, although he jokes, “My primary major was partying.” Ironically, those party skills transferred well to his profession. Over 35 years in the bar industry has given Kevin a familiarity with many libations. Now, this lifelong learner passes on what he’s discovered about fine whiskeys by curating specialty tastings for everyday Missoulians.
In 1987, Kevin partnered with Brad Martens to open The Rhinoceros Bar. “We started with just three beers on tap,” Kevin said. Through a series of growth spurts in the 1990’s, their selection expanded to 50 beers. “That put us on the map. Back then, nobody had as many as we did,” he said.
Their growing stack of kegs in the back cooler was evidence that the American palate was changing. Most drinkers were already familiar with the nuances of how earth and weather transformed grapes into wine; now they were discovering how hops and barley could combine to make microbrews with more character than the ubiquitous yellow beer. It wasn’t a huge surprise, then, when whiskey got the same upgrade. Those glass bottles shining behind Montana bars began to proliferate with new vintages and styles. That’s when Kevin discovered that liquor could be more than just party fuel. “It was those single-malts that inspired my sweet tooth for whiskey. I had never had a drink like that before. It was something I could spend time with and appreciate how well it's created. I learned to savor it instead of pounding it,” he said.
Throughout his years exploring the world of whiskey, Kevin has sampled legends and collected stories worthy of the slow sips that fine spirits inspire. “I remember finding a hidden treasure on a trip to Scotland,” he said. “It was called ‘Old Acquaintance’ and that’s still the whiskey by which I judge all others.” One of the most unusual pours Kevin sampled was the single-barrel known as “The Whiskey That Can’t Be Named” by Glenfarclas. “Every five minutes the nose and taste changed. First, it was like opening up a cedar spice chest. Then came more flavors: marzipan, coconut, dark chocolate, and orange. It’s the most unique whiskey I’ve ever had,” said Kevin. That vintage was stored for fifty years and bottles sold for $1,000 each at the time. However, Kevin insists that a higher price doesn’t always guarantee better quality. “I’ve tasted seven or eight six-figure shots in my life. Some were a symphony of flavor. Others started out great but ended like someone put a baseball bat in it. More expensive can mean rarer but not always better,” he said.
By 2021, when Kevin became sole-owner of The Rhino, he was regularly hosting tastings and continues to this day. He’ll gather six to eight different varieties, then line up the selection to maximize everyone’s flavor experience. “We start with smoother, simpler profiles. The very last whiskey is the strongest. Over a two hour tasting, folks will have about 2 and a half ounces total—enough to have a glow but not be too lit,” he said. While his audience partakes, Kevin shares interesting facts. For example, when American pioneers from Virginia moved to Kentucky, they switched from distilling rye to using corn. Distilleries in Bourbon County, Kentucky sent barrels down river to New Orleans. “That’s how it all came to be known as bourbon,” said Kevin. “In fact, to be called bourbon, a whiskey must be made from at least 51% corn. Also, the barrels can be used just once. So, back then, distillers were looking for a way to make money off their used barrels. That's when they began shipping casks to Scotland and the scotches started getting interesting,” he said.
During tastings, Kevin listens for that sound which automagically arises when someone encounters an unexpected flavor. “When I hear that ‘oooh,’ I know I’ve done my job,” he said. Ironically, a flavor that one person likes can just as easily scrunch up the nose of the person sitting next to them. That’s the way Kevin likes it. “There’s something for everybody. That's what's fun about it. There’s always new things to try.” he said. Indeed, these days, old whiskey barrels that have given up their last zest often take second shift at microbreweries. Trace flavors hidden in the wood can be teased out to spice up a beer. This trend has given The Rhino a whole new way to partner with local microbreweries. For example, after having a 15-year-old George Dickel Tennessee Single-Barrel Whiskey specially bottled for the bar, Kevin had the barrel shipped to Missoula and filled it with Bayern Brewing’s Doppelbock. It sat for another six months and was tapped just in time for the holidays. “It was magnificent,” said Kevin.
So, what’s Kevin’s favorite drink now? “Depends on what’s in my glass,” he said. “There’s always something new. If it’s been a while, come on into the bar. We’re keeping it fresh, dynamic, and fun. The whole thing about this is making it accessible to everybody. We all deserve the good stuff every now and then.”
If you’d like to join a tasting, watch for the first Saturday in June when Kevin will introduce eight single malts to celebrate Ardbeg Day. If you can’t make it, you can join The Polished Horn Club to receive text alerts of upcoming tastings and special releases. Sign up and see the current list of all 50 beers on tap at RhinoMontana.com. If you’d like to schedule a private tasting, or have The Rhino provide a catered bar at your next event, call 406.721.6061 for contact information.
“When I hear that ‘oooh,’ I know I’ve done my job." - Kevin Head