There is something about the holidays that makes us want to slow down and gather. To set a table that feels intentional, to pour something that deserves a real glass, and to linger a little longer than usual with the people we love. Steve Hultgren has been thinking about exactly that his entire life. His wine journey began not in a shop or a tasting room, but at his father's holiday table, where wine was treated as part of the meal itself.
"To him, wine was part of the dining experience, and so much more than just a drink on the table," Steve recalls. "It taught me that wine has its own place and should be included in meal planning."
That early lesson never left him. As the owner of Parkville Wine House, he has spent years building a place that feels less like a retail shop and more like a gathering place, which, in Parkville, makes perfect sense.
"Parkville is special, in that it's like stepping into a small town without ever leaving Kansas City," Steve says. "There is a strong sense of community and pride here."
That sense of community drew him in long before the Wine House existed. Through years of wine-related work in the area, he kept hearing the same thing from the people around him: Parkville needs a wine bar. Eventually, he and his partners decided to make it happen. The result is a shop that reflects its town. Unpretentious, genuinely warm, and stocked with bottles worth talking about.
November is when things start to shift. The air cools, the requests change, and people begin thinking ahead to the meals they want to make and the people they want to make them for. Cabernets, Malbecs, Italian and French reds, Zinfandel-based blends — the fuller, richer bottles start finding their way off the shelves. The holiday season is one of Steve's favorite stretches of the year, largely because of the conversations it starts. Customers come in with menus in hand, asking him to help match wines to every course.
"The right pairing can really elevate a meal into something special," he says. "It's one of the most enjoyable aspects of what I do."
For a traditional Thanksgiving table, Steve leans toward wines that complement those earthy, comforting flavors of classic herbs and holiday sides.
"I'm probably more traditional with my Thanksgiving pairings than any other holiday," he says.
His holiday reds of choice are an Oregon Pinot Noir, a French Beaujolais, or for something truly memorable, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhône Valley. On the white side, he reaches for a dry Riesling, Chenin Blanc, or a French White Burgundy.
Ham, he'll tell you, is trickier than it looks.
"Wines with tannin are definitely out, as that leads to a bitter combination," he explains. A dry rosé, a Riesling, or a low-tannin Pinot Noir will serve you well there. Prime rib calls for a French Bordeaux, ideally a Merlot-dominant Right Bank. If there's a mushroom Wellington on the table, reach for a Pinot Noir again, light enough not to overpower the earthiness of the dish.
Before the meal even starts, think bubbles.
"A highly acidic bubbly wine such as Cava can act as a palate cleanser for the salt and fat of cured meats," Steve says, making it a natural companion to a holiday charcuterie board. A crisp, dry rosé from Provence works beautifully too. And when dessert arrives, whether pumpkin pie, pecan pie, or apple crisp, Steve reaches for a 10- or 20-Year Tawny Port from Portugal.
"The caramel and vanilla notes are a delightful way to end any meal," he says. "A small pour goes a long way." One glass, sipped slowly by the light of whatever candles are still burning, is a lovely way to close a holiday evening.
For hosts trying to plan quantities, Steve offers a practical rule of thumb: estimate about half a bottle per person, then round up by one. Six guests means four bottles. Ten guests means six. Twelve means seven. "You don't want to be known as the host that runs out of wine," he says simply.
For value picks and host gifts, two bottles stand out. For white, an Orvieto from central Italy, dry and clean with a pleasant peach note and crisp acidity. For red, the CMS blend from Hedges Family Estate in Washington's Red Mountain. "This wine represents the best of what Washington produces," Steve says. Both are under $20 and both will make you look like you know exactly what you're doing.
In December, the Parkville Wine House itself becomes part of the celebration. Champagne and sparkling tastings, a wine and chocolate pairing event, live music on Saturday nights, and the kind of warm, decorated space that makes small group holiday parties feel just right. "I consider a bottle of wine to be a very personal and thoughtful gift," Steve says. For anyone who wants to give that gift without the pressure of choosing the perfect bottle, gift cards are available in the shop and online.
For a holiday full of warmth and memories to savor for years to come, Parkville Wine House has a unique balance of knowledge and excellent taste.
Parkville Wine House
305 Main Street, Parkville
parkvillewinehouse.com
Instagram: @parkvillewinehouse
"The right pairing can really elevate a meal into something special. It's one of the most enjoyable aspects of what I do."
"I consider a bottle of wine to be a very personal and thoughtful gift."