One thing for certain in New Mexico is that many people will gift turquoise jewelry to loved ones this holiday season. Other than its aesthetic appeal, other properties are attributed to the gem. Many cultures believe that turquoise imparts luck and protection, as well as warding off negative energies and bringing good fortune. It’s also seen as promoting unity and friendship, making it an ideal gift for someone special to you.
While primarily known as a gem from mines in the American Southwest, it also originates from Iran, Egypt, China, Turkey, Chile, and Mexico, as well as several other international sources. Turquoise has been used in jewelry for centuries. It has been unearthed at the ruins of Chaco Canyon and, in Egypt, dates back to the pharaohs.
Albuquerque City Lifestyle magazine wanted to give buyers some insight into acquiring quality turquoise jewelry, so we talked to Ernie Montoya…a renowned local expert on the subject with 45 years of experience in the business. He runs Sunwest Silver Company on Lomas Blvd. Albuquerque residents know his shop as the big pink building with the huge robot statues in the parking lot. He has one of the world’s largest collections of raw turquoise stones. It’s stored in thousands of jars on shelves in his shop’s basement. He also operates four mines in northern Nevada and continues to prospect. Ninety-five percent of his jewelry inventory is Native American crafted, mostly with the turquoise from his mines.
Ernie told us, “If you're going to buy quality jewelry it should be natural turquoise. It will cost a little more, but in the long run, it has much more value. Sometimes it could be an enhanced type of turquoise where it's not the real thing. It’s had the color embellished or the surface gloss artificially enhanced. The best way to judge the quality is if the dealer can provide a bio of the jewelry artist. There are knockoffs of Native American jewelry that degrade the entire market. The silver elements should be .925 purity.”
There are also a variety of colors that are particular to a specific mine. Ernie says, “There are about 18 colors of turquoise, in shades of blue or green.” One of Ernie’s mines produces a green gemstone. Some Pueblo jewelry artists also use other beautifully colored stones like coral or lapis.
Another element of the stone’s appearance is called “matrixing.” This refers to the black lines that usually run through turquoise stones. Ernie says,” Matrixing is something that’s just a matter of taste. Most Americans like the matrix in their turquoise because they have a more mineral look and more character. In Europe and Asia, they tend to lean more to the stones without matrixing, but the mines that are currently producing it are limited.”
As for pricing, there is no set rate for turquoise like there is for silver or gold. The craftsmanship of the entire jewelry piece and the quality of the gem determine the cost.
There are plenty of reputable shops selling turquoise jewelry in Albuquerque and many internationally known craftspeople producing it throughout the Southwest, but you should not hesitate to ask questions…Who is the artist? What mine did it come from? Is it a natural stone or has it been artificially enhanced? High-quality turquoise jewelry is not cheap, with some items priced in the thousands of dollars. Do some due diligence and you’ll have a lovely gift that is also an investment or an heirloom.
“If you're going to buy quality jewelry, it should be natural turquoise."