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Vines and leaves at Keswick Vineyards. Photo courtesy of Keswick Vineyards.

Featured Article

Virginia Wines to Share This Season

Keswick Vineyard's winemaker Stephen Barnard on the perfect wine for autumn.

Fall in Central Virginia is full of harvest flavors -- what wines do you think best capture the feeling of the season? 

I am such a fan of Virginia wines. It’s a little cooler, colors are changing, so for me, a fuller-bodied white wine. I love Viognier -- Jefferson Vineyards makes a good one and King Family Vineyards’ [White Plains] has a blend with Petit Manseng, Chardonnay, and Viognier.

Reds, you can play around with everything. You can go with lighter fruit-forward types of wine. Pollak makes a great Pinot Noir. There are also so many meritage blends -- Barboursville Octagon stands out. Up north, Linden makes a wonderful Claret. Those are the kind of wines I’ve had multiple times. Absolutely perfect for that time of year.

Are there any unexpected fall foods that you love pairing with wine, something people might not immediately think of?

It’s amazing how pumpkin spice and Riesling can go together. But traditional is traditional for a reason. With cranberry, you want a red that goes with that tartness. Always start with bubbles and don’t forget rosé -- Southwest Mountain Vineyards, our neighbors, make tremendous rosé.

Thanksgiving tables can be a mix of rich, savory, and sweet -- what is your go-to pairing that can hold its own across all those flavors? 

I’d go with a really medium-bodied fruit-forward type of wine that can stand up to all of those, like Sangiovese, which is a really lovely fruit-friendly wine. A really, really good rose that has seen some oak can also be a surprising crowd-pleasing wine. 

How does the terroir of Central Virginia influence your wines, and do you think that adds something special when paired with local fall foods?

I think the fact is that the saying “if it grows together, it goes together” is a wonderful thing. We have 8 AVAs and 10 geographical regions, and they’re all so influenced by rainfall. If you had to sum up Virginia wines, they’re so balanced and well-made. You can have them on their own or pair them. If you’re in Virginia, you want to support local. Local beer, local food, local cider, local wine. They grow in the same soil … they’re going to go well together. 

For someone who’s just starting to explore pairing, what’s a simple guideline they can use in the fall season to make their choices feel elevated but not intimidating?

I would say, trust your palate, drink what you like when you like. Yes, reds and meats and whites with cheeses. But be curious -- try dark meats with white wines. At the end of the day, you have to drink and eat the thing and like it. You might come up with a pairing that none of us have ever thought about. 

Do you have a favorite wine you like to sip during the quieter moments of fall -- maybe by a fire or while cooking?

I do -- it would be hard not to say it’s a Keswick wine because it’s our family and we make it! But I just love all Virginia Cabernet Franc. It’s some of the best in the world. And I always have a soft spot for the wines that I make and that I’m proud of, but I’d drink any Virginia Cabernet Franc. 

Any other wine pairing advice for the season: 

I think that’s the great thing about wine -- it’s such a wonderful thing to bring people together. Thinking of fall and Thanksgiving, essentially, what we’re thankful for is each other, and if Virginia wine is on the table, that’s great. That’s the beauty of wine - it gets people together and stimulates community. And it’s local. It just goes together with the season.

That’s the beauty of wine - it gets people together and stimulates community... It just goes together with the season.