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Locally Grown

What reminds you of elephants? A conversation with Executive Chef Brett Dorrance and his wife, Jillian Flesh.

"Brett will ask me, 'What reminds you of elephants?'," says Jillian as she comments about conversations she has with her husband. Brett adds, "I was planning an appetizer party in front of the Asian Elephant viewing area, and I was looking for inspiration."

As the Executive Chef at the St. Louis Zoo, Brett Dorrance tries never to repeat a menu. Considering the zoo hosts over 900 events per year, Brett's commitment to innovative culinary creations necessitates an abundance of creativity and a passion for blending foods and cultures. "If we are raising awareness for chimpanzees in Kenya, I'll create familiar dishes with a Kenyan flair," states Brett.

A typical day at work for Brett includes preparing a wide variety of menus for multiple events. “I’ll make chicken strips and hamburgers for a child's birthday party. Then create an animal-themed cocktail party for corporate events. For members and esteemed guests of the zoo, I'll serve smoked duck with a cherry jam on puff pastry studded with apricots and pecans as part of a multi-course fine dining experience."

When he describes what it's like being the executive chef at the nation's top-rated zoo, Brett laughs and says, "It's hard to have a bad day at work because you can always walk outside and see amazing animals at the zoo." Jillian adds, "He sends me videos of animals for our daughter, Indie.” According to Brett, the sea lions go wild at night.

With degrees in history and anthropology, Brett explains his journey to becoming an executive chef. "My dad was in the military. I grew up in East Asia and all over the US. As a kid, my brother and my jobs were to get dinner on the table. I ran restaurants to help pay for college. I have been working as an executive chef or Sous at various places for a long time."

Brett happily plays the role of executive chef at home. Jillian said India and Ethiopia inspire many of their meals. "It's easy," said Brett. "I just make curry with whatever vegetables I pull from the garden."

Brett and Jillian's bountiful front yard garden serves as their daily fresh food market.

"Indie, our 4-year-old, just snacks away," laughs Brett. "She goes in and pulls carrots or ground cherries to eat. We have one tomato plant that is her go-to. She harvests whatever she wants. We call it organic grazing."

Their beautiful garden began with a detailed design. "Our friend Kyle West created a plan for the perennials, the pollinators, the soil retention, and the pathway," explained Jillian. "He left us space in the middle for the vegetables. We keep expanding."

"The biggest thing we had to figure out was how much of something we needed to grow," said Brett. "We do a lot of canning for the winter. Jalapenos, banana peppers, beets, carrots. I'll smoke the chilies, and then I dry them."

"We're making fermented hot sauce," notes Jillian. "That will be our Christmas presents this year."

How Does Your Garden Grow?
Jillian: We live on Adams. It's a busy street, but it's very pedestrian. People walk by and stop to ask us about our garden, especially during quarantine, when we spent every day outside. Our garden has created the neighborhood building experience we wanted.

Create Your Own
Brett: The most significant thing about gardening, especially vegetable gardening, is don't get discouraged. You don't need to be an expert to try. It takes a couple of years to develop a system that works for you. If something doesn't grow in a space one year, move it and try again next year. Even if it doesn't work, it's a fun process. Indie knows where her food comes. She grows it, picks it. She pulls a carrot out of the ground, washes it off, and takes a bite.

Spreading the Love
Jillian: I decided I love cut flowers by accident. Brett fell down the front stairs and spilled Zinnia seeds everywhere. It was the happiest accident. Our garden is a labor of love. Every year we get better at it. And it looks cooler. It gives us something we can all do it together.

Gardening Tips and Tricks
Jillian: For us, a big thing was creating a pollinator-friendly garden within a larger eco-system. We don't use chemicals, so there are always weeds to pull, but spending 15 minutes getting your hands dirty makes you feel so much better. Although, we have been known to bribe Indie and tell her she can chew gum as long as she is pulling weeds.