One could say that creativity and cooking run in Martino Linares’ blood.
Growing up among the bustle of his father’s restaurant kitchen, Linares absorbed the soundtrack of clattering pans, felt the heat of the fire on the stove, witnessed the frenetic, yet controlled movements of the staff as they prepared dishes and delighted in the convivial conversation of patrons enjoying time with friends and family in the dining room.
The setting: His father’s restaurant, Martino’s, on the corner of Doughty and Main streets in Somerville. “As a little kid, I would go there pretty much every summer and help out. When my father opened his restaurant in 1993, we were one of the few ethnic restaurants in Somerville — if not the first. He helped establish the Somerville restaurant scene,” Linares says. “I wanted to continue to build upon what my father had already built and have his name and legacy live on in Somerville.”
Since its opening in 2019, Linares’ restaurant has evolved from one with a Cuban focus to Brunch By De Martino, a Latin-inspired all-day breakfast, lunch and brunch destination. The popular BYOB eatery that seats 62 inside and 12 outside, is reminiscent of Cuban paladares (privately owned family eateries).
Linares strives to create a menu that caters to a new generation. “My brunch is different; it’s an experience,” he says. “When I developed the menu, I wanted a balance of savory and sweet dishes, mixed with American breakfast lunch staples and seasonal fare. Everything is made fresh, from scratch — it’s flavorful.”
Brunch By De Martino has become known for its artistry of presentation as much as for its flavor profile: Dishes turn patrons’ heads as servers travel from the kitchen to tables, eliciting hushed whispers of What is that! “I visualize everything,” he says. “I want the food to taste good; I want it to look good.”
Starting in October, Linares is embracing the bounty of the harvest with dishes such as Sweet Potato Hash and Pumpkin Pancakes. Also in the fall, he will infuse the festive flavors of coquito — a traditional Puerto Rican Christmas drink similar to eggnog — into pancakes and French toast, revving up the Latin influence and giving a welcoming nod to the holidays.
Regular menu standouts include Linares’ take on the classic Chicken and Waffles, a decadent combination of sweet and savory combined with soft sponginess and crunch — crispy buttermilk fried chicken thighs nestled between scallion-cheddar-buttermilk waffles and drizzled with hot honey — and tres leches French toast, an homage to the tres leches cake his father served.
Otherwise, expect dishes that Linares himself enjoys to pop up on the menu. “I love eating pasta, so I made my version of a spicy rigatoni, which has a creamy vodka sauce with some Latin flavor, Parmesan cheese, basil oil, ricotta cheese and crispy garlic garnished with micro basil,” he says.
Whenever possible, he sources locally and organically from purveyors such as Three Meadows Farm in Bedminster, which supplies fresh, hydroponically-grown produce and micro greens and is a job-training site for the Somerset Hills Learning Institute, a non-profit education and treatment program for people with autism. “This farm teaches skills to students with autism and does not use pesticides,” he says.
Behind the Scenes at Brunch By De Martino
In his free time, Linares and his wife love exploring and supporting restaurants that share his passion for community, pride in their craft, and a commitment to serving creative and mouth watering dishes. His wife, who works outside of the restaurant full-time, plays an active role in Brunch By De Martino by helping as needed in her free time and providing ideas and inspirations.
After work or on the weekends, the local couple often can be seen strolling the streets of Somerville with their two dogs — Simon, a Boston Terrier–Coonhound mix, and Louie, a West Highland White Terrier — encountering people they know and catching up. If you don’t immediately recognize the couple on the street, you may first notice Simon, who is memorialized along with the couple’s late pooch Romeo, a Westie-Yorkie mix, in the murals at the restaurant’s dining room.
“I love being in Somerville; it is pretty much my second home,” Linares says. “I've seen the changes that Somerville has made, and what they're doing is great. In addition to local customers, we get many out-of-towners — some who drive from as far as a few hours away in upstate New York and Pennsylvania just to dine at our restaurant." Knowing this makes the long hours, hard work, and dedication worth it.
Those early months before opening were filled with sleepless nights. “My father always told me to never give up: Always give your best; it’s going to pay off,” he continues. "Opening this restaurant, my first venture on my own, was stressful. But I kept those words in mind and pushed forward. Today, I am proud to have a thriving restaurant with wonderful guests and an amazing team. The team hears the constant praise and wonderful things about the restaurant, which motivates all of us.” Linares concludes, "I know that success isn't just about the food we serve. It's about the bonds we help strengthen and the memories that we help build. It's about building a community. And that's what makes it all worthwhile."
View the creative offerings at brunchinsomerville.com.
“I love being in Somerville; it is pretty much my second home.” - Martino Linares