It’s a question James Lewis hears every year about this time: “What are the best wines to serve with Thanksgiving dinner?” James is a sommelier who has been in the wine business for more than 26 years, and he and his wife Nancie own Crush Wine Bar. So, he knows the answer.
“In my early days in the wine business, the answer was pretty cut and dried because it was all based on the assumption that you had a turkey that came out of the oven that was dry, and so you're almost guaranteed to need something with a little bit of sweetness to it to help balance that out,” James says. “So I’d recommend a sweet or off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer. Something that will help with that dry meat that you're about to choke down.”
But now, with all the ways people are preparing the big bird, he says that conversation has become a lot more interesting and fun.
“People are frying turkeys, which come out really moist and delicious. They're smoking turkeys and they're doing them on the grill,” James says. “Now, when I’m asked that question, I always ask how the turkey is going to be cooked because any given preparation is going to call for something a little bit different.
“If you're deep frying it, it's going to come out very moist with a fair bit of fat, so you need something that's going to cut through that. So you can go with a dry white, you can do a dry Riesling, or you could try a French Chardonnay, which typically doesn't have that big, rich mouthfeel that California Chardonnay would have. It’s crisper and cleaner with high acidity.”
For those who prefer red wines, James says that a fried or smoked turkey can handle something a bit bolder and full-bodied. “Try something like a Pinot Noir. It's not at all heavy-handed. When I'm talking about red wines, and I talk about heavy-handed or big—Cabernet is big and full-bodied. I call it the linebacker of the wine world. Then you've got Pinot Noir, which is more about balance and elegance. So, if Cabernet is a linebacker, Pinot Noir would be the ballerina. They're both athletes, but with different approaches to athletics, so they have different approaches to your palate. Cabernet is big, dry, and highly tannic, so you might serve a Cabernet or Malbec if you're having a steak for Thanksgiving, but you wouldn't want to do with a turkey.
“With a turkey,” James continues, “you want something that's going to have a little more acidity, less tannins, and medium body; not that big mouth-filling richness. You can do a Beaujolais or an old-world Italian Sangiovese, which tends to be a very food-friendly wine.”
Somewhere in between might be a soft, flirty rosé. And rosé wine seems to be having a moment. “Rosé was always thought of as a summer wine, but people are now drinking it year-round. It’s an excellent choice to go with turkey.”
What about bubbles? “I almost hesitate to answer that because it's kind of the easy answer. You can drink Champagne or sparkling with anything because of that really bright acidity. Especially if you have a fried bird, a Prosecco or sparkling wine is going to cut right through that fattiness and balance it out really nicely.”
If you’re hosting a tableful of friends and family this year, James says it’s easy to bring together a collection of wines that will please the crowd. “If you do one bottle of sparkling, whether it's white or rosé, a bottle of dry white, a bottle of rosé, and a bottle of medium-bodied red, you've got something to cover just about anybody's preference.”
What if I’m serving ham this year?
“Lots of people have ham for Thanksgiving, right? It's very traditional to pair ham and Pinot. But again, you can get creative. You can do a Grenache, you can do a Beaujolais…really, any of those medium-bodied reds will be delicious. “
What about dessert?
“If you're having pumpkin pie for dessert, I would go with something like a tawny port. The spiciness of the pie combined with that kind of nuttiness and caramel notes of a tawny port? Lovely. And it would work with an apple pie as well.”
How much should I spend on a bottle of wine?
“That’s kind of an impossible question to answer because wine is so incredibly subjective. That said, I'm a firm believer that there is an absolute ocean of delicious wine in that $15–$25 retail price point. If you go to your wine shop and tell them you’re looking for a nice off-dry Riesling for around 20 bucks, they should be able to find you something that'll work really well. There’s no reason to break the bank."