Every October there’s a moment when Denver mornings turn crisp, the green chile roasters start spinning at the farmers market, and all anyone wants is something warm to hold. At Convivio Café, that moment arrives with cinnamon, cardamom and a little heat. “Fall tastes like cozy, but with a little kick,” says Vivi Lemus, one of the café’s owners, and one visit makes it clear the same could be said of Convivio itself.
Owned by women and immigrants and rooted in Guatemalan culture, coffee, food and community, Convivio found its Northside home almost by chance. While the team was searching for their first storefront, a friend connected them to a century old building that was once a neighborhood upholstery shop and has housed generations of small businesses since. The neighborhood welcomed them in. “Honestly, we say the location chose us,” Vivi says. “We like to say that new roots can grow alongside deeper ones.”
Those roots stretch all the way back to Guatemala, starting with the coffee. Convivio’s beans are fully traceable, going beyond the traditional fair trade model through a shorter supply chain that keeps more value with the farmers. Each batch is roasted to order in Guatemala and shipped directly to Denver, and the offerings rotate so there’s always something new to try. “Coffee isn’t just a product,” Vivi says. “It’s a way to connect people in Denver with the farmers and communities who grow it.”
This fall, that connection shows up in a seasonal menu built on tradition and comfort. The house favorite is Otoñada, Convivio’s take on the pumpkin spice latte, made with real pumpkin and warm spices. “It’s our spooky prima version of the PSL,” Vivi laughs. For something without caffeine, Atol Azul is a lightly sweetened, spiced drink made with blue corn, and Café de Olla, the Mexican classic brewed with brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves and star anise, comes hot or iced for the warm afternoons October still loves to throw at us. And when Vivi wants that little kick herself, she reaches for the Picosita, a house mocha that blends chocolate, Guatemalan chile cobanero, espresso and steamed milk, finished with chocolate and chile flakes. It’s sweet, spicy and exactly what a frosty Denver morning calls for.
The same care carries over to the food, with everything from the dishes to the syrups and sauces made from scratch using real, thoughtfully sourced ingredients. First visit? Pair a Café Cardamomo with the Tostada Trio, which layers Guatemalan style guacamol, traditional black beans and house salsa under queso fresco, parsley and onions. “It’s a simple dish that captures the flavors and soul of Guatemalan street food,” Vivi says.
When to go depends on your mood. Weekday mornings are quiet enough to read or get some work done, while weekends are made for lingering with friends. Around 3 p.m. on a Saturday or Sunday is prime time for a cafecito, a glass of wine, a small bite and something sweet.
The season only gets fuller from here. The Northside café celebrates its anniversary on November 1 with traditions tied to Día de Todos los Santos, and in December the downtown location hosts a winter market, followed by the annual Posada on December 17, complete with music, tamales and plenty of community spirit.
So grab a scarf, bring a neighbor, and come find out what fall tastes like with a little kick.