When my wife and I returned to Hawaii this summer, we approached the trip much differently than we had our honeymoon four years earlier. This time, we were on a mission: find the most unique restaurants and food experiences we could.
That journey took us down the Road to Hana for famous banana bread and hand-turned huli-huli chicken, to farms growing chiles for hot sauce and cacao for Maui-made chocolate, and eventually to Mama’s Fish House on Maui’s North Shore — a reservation we had spent months trying to secure.
Mama’s is family-owned, founded in 1973, and still deeply connected to the island. The menu changes daily based on the freshest catch, even listing the boat and fisherman responsible for each fish.
We tried as much as we could, including Ahi Poisson Cru, Macadamia Nut Crab Cakes, Shrimp Wontons and Seared Beef and Papaya. But the highlight was Mama’s Fish House Curry: fresh fish in a rich coconut curry, more sweet than spicy, with mango chutney, banana, macadamia nuts and sambal adding layers of tropical flavor.
With a few tips from the staff, I knew I had to recreate it at home. I hope this version brings a little taste of Hawaii to your table as summer fades into fall.
Until next time… Grill On!
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE–STYLE PANANG FISH CURRY
SERVES 4
FISH
4 6-oz portions mahi-mahi
1 tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp white pepper
1 tbsp neutral oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
VEGETABLES
½ cup sugar snap peas
½ cup green beans, cut into 1½-inch pieces
1 bell pepper, sliced
1 medium carrot, roll cut
4–6 oz baby bella mushrooms, quartered
PANANG CURRY
6 tbsp Maesri Panang Curry Paste, more to taste
1 tbsp neutral oil
2 13.5-oz cans full-fat Thai coconut milk
1 13.5-oz can unsweetened coconut cream
2 tbsp brown sugar
1½ tbsp Thai fish sauce
½ tsp shrimp paste
1 tbsp minced lemongrass or lemongrass paste
1 tsp minced ginger or ginger paste
1–2 tsp fresh lime juice
OPTIONAL GARNISHES
Toasted unsweetened coconut, diced slightly green banana tossed with mint and lime, mango chutney, sambal oelek, chopped roasted macadamias, fresh mint, cilantro and lime wedges.
DIRECTIONS
1. Toast coconut, if using, in a dry skillet over medium-low heat 3–5 minutes. Set aside.
2. Blanch green beans for 2 minutes and carrots for 3 minutes; transfer to ice water and drain. Sauté mushrooms 3–4 minutes. Add bell pepper, beans and carrots; cook 2 minutes. Add snap peas and cook 1 minute more. Remove.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-low. Cook curry paste 2–3 minutes. Add coconut cream and cook 3 minutes. Whisk in coconut milk, brown sugar, fish sauce, shrimp paste, lemongrass and ginger. Simmer uncovered 10–12 minutes. Finish with lime juice.
4. Pat mahi-mahi dry and season with salt and white pepper. Cook in a skillet, on a griddle or grill until browned outside and slightly underdone in the center.
5. Return vegetables to the curry and simmer 1–2 minutes. Add mahi-mahi, spoon curry over the fish and cook gently 2–3 minutes, just until done.
6. Serve over jasmine rice with garnishes as desired.
PIRATE’S NOTE
Keep the curry rich and coconut-forward, the vegetables crisp-tender and the mahi-mahi just cooked through. The optional garnishes bring the sweet, savory and spicy contrast that makes this dish feel straight from Kuau Cove.
Gerritt Keaton, known by friends as The BBQ Pirate, is a Weber Grills Certified Grill Pro and backyard BBQ enthusiast in Smyrna. Follow him on Instagram @TheBBQPirate.