At just 18 years old, Sam Watson stood on the podium in Paris, a bronze medal draped around his neck and the weight of a record-breaking performance behind him. The crowd cheered, but in Watson’s mind, the moment was more than a celebration—it was the culmination of years of planning, relentless training, and a dream that took root when he was barely old enough to ride a bike.
Watson broke the world speed climbing record twice during the 2024 Summer Olympics. And though he came just shy of gold, he considers his performance in Paris a personal triumph.
“It was a great experience,” he reflects. “The Olympics was the culmination of everything I wanted to do. Because it happens every four years, you’re constantly preparing for this distant goal. It shapes your entire life.”
Climbing has been a part of that life since Sam was five years old. He started in his hometown gym, scaling plastic holds before most kids his age were tying their own shoes. But it wasn’t until he turned 16 that he truly believed he could pursue it professionally. Winning his first major event in 2022 lit a fire that hasn't gone out since.
That fire was tested in 2023 at the World Championships, where Watson admits he performed poorly. With only 70 days until his next shot at Olympic qualification—the Pan American Games in Santiago—he threw himself into an intense period of mental and physical recalibration. The result? A win in Santiago and a ticket to the Olympic Games.
“That stretch was the biggest growth phase of my life as an athlete,” Watson says. “I had to completely change my approach—physically and mentally.”
Speed climbing may appear simple—30 quick movements to the top of a standardized wall, but it demands the kind of precision and explosive power few athletes can master. Leading up to major competitions, Watson focuses on a grueling training strategy called “performance volume,” where he attempts over a dozen runs, aiming to land a high percentage within world-class times.
“I hold the world record by just 0.01 seconds,” he explains. “That margin is so thin. There’s no room for error.”
Training is year-round, with a full off-season in the winter dedicated to strength and conditioning. Watson credits much of his success to his coach, Albert Oak, who works with him daily, and his strength and conditioning coach, Matt Madison, who tailors training cycles that range from strength blocks to speed-focused isometric phases.
“It’s like an art form,” Watson says of the process. “I’ve been lucky to have great people helping me figure it all out.”
Balancing elite-level training with school, family, and international travel hasn’t been easy. This past fall, a packed travel schedule took a toll on his physical condition.
“It threw me off,” he admits. “But it also gave me perspective. It’s all a practice, and learning to bounce back is part of being an athlete.”
What’s perhaps most striking about Watson is not just his physical ability but his thoughtful approach to the sport. While he embraces competition, he also views sport as a vehicle for personal growth. One of his coaches once told him: “Not everyone will be Adam Ondra”—a nod to one of climbing’s greats—“but you can still become a better person through sport.”
“That really stuck with me,” Watson says. “Whether or not you go pro, sport teaches you discipline and how to push yourself.”
That mindset extends to his role in the climbing community. Watson is passionate about fostering the culture that shaped him—one where mentorship, mutual respect, and passion for the sport thrive.
“Climbing has built a great culture,” he says. “The older generation, my peers, and now the next wave of athletes are all contributing to that. I’m grateful to be a part of it.”
Off the wall, Watson’s interests are surprisingly grounded. He enjoys chess and racing games like Mario Kart—not just for fun, but for the way they tap into a similar sense of flow and precision.
“Chess is such a global sport,” he says. “No matter where you’re from or what language you speak, it’s something people can share. I love that.”
Looking ahead, Watson’s goals remain sky-high. He wants to win an Olympic gold, claim the world number one ranking, and dominate the World Championships. But just as important is his mission to grow the sport and bring climbing into the mainstream.
“The Olympics is a stage,” he says. “But I love what I do outside of it, too. I want more people to see how incredible this sport is.”
For Sam Watson, climbing isn’t just about getting to the top—it’s about how you get there. With drive, humility, and a deep respect for the journey, he’s helping define the future of speed climbing.
"I want people to see how incredible this sport is.”
“Whether or not you go pro, sport teaches you discipline and how to push yourself.”