In February, Chef Austin Simmons bought his first horse, a chestnut-colored, fully trained cattle horse named Tiki that Simmons describes as his new best friend. Tiki helps Simmons work the cows in his new enterprise as cattle breeder and rancher.
Any given day across ranches in Walker, Leon, Brazos, and Brazoria Counties, you’ll find him hard at work pouring sacks of feed, bottle-feeding calves, and inspecting his prized Texas Wagyu herds. A self-described “Texas boy” who loves to hunt and fish, Simmons seems at home on the range. Though a far cry from his previous gig as chef extraordinaire of TRIS, one of the top restaurants in Texas, Simmons has traded his white chef’s jacket for a cowboy hat and work boots without skipping a beat.
In January, Woodlanders were rubbing their eyes in disbelief when TRIS permanently closed its doors after Simmons, its acclaimed executive chef, decided it was time to move on. Another chef might have taken some time off before pursuing new horizons. But, as Texas Monthly restaurant critic Patricia Sharpe once observed, Simmons has a “fire in the belly,” the mark of all top chefs. Instead of taking a break, he put projects in motion that had been relegated to the back burner during all those years in the kitchen.
That same month, Simmons loaded up his cooking gear and headed to California to feed National Guard troops who were sleeping in tents and eating MREs in between battling the Los Angeles fires. He and his team prepared over 3,500 burgers and brisket, said Simmons. After that, the service opportunities and events kept coming.
In February, he fed hundreds of law enforcement officers, border patrol, and members of the military in Hidalgo County as part of the Make America Clean Again initiative. In April, he and his crew cooked at the Cattle Country Music Festival in Gonzales, even showcasing a bull and a “mama cow” at the event. He has a jam-packed calendar of private events, too, where he’s preparing his renowned steak boards and signature dishes both locally and across the country. He’s even popped up on the guest list for a presidential event at Mar-a-Lago.
One of his major projects has also come to fruition. While at TRIS, his interest in beef led Simmons to curate innovative menus that included steaks from more mature cows and lesser-known “butcher’s cuts.” Celebrities began to make pilgrimages to The Woodlands to experience one of his steak boards — Post Malone, Joe Rogan, and Donald Trump, Jr. each paid a call.
Simmons said that in a restaurant kitchen, maintaining beef quality is a constant concern. One week, a chef may source a tenderloin that’s outstanding — a steak with good fat and good intramuscular, he explained. The next week, the same cut from the same supplier may be mealy and lack flavor.
“That’s where my journey started,” he said.
He collaborated with Texas ranchers Larry Ludeke and Joe Morris to breed a “true F1 cross” raised on “clean feed” — no hormones, no corn syrup, no manufactured ingredients.
Together, they developed a genetically verified, 100% cross between a full-blood Japanese Black Wagyu, known for its marbling, and a full-blood French Charolais, known for its muscle. French Charolais is “the bodybuilder of cattle,” said Simmons. “There’s no marbling in that animal. Wagyu is great for melting point, but the muscle creates the flavor.”
Breeding these two characteristics together results in a fine, evenly distributed “flaky” marbling that achieves the perfect Maillard reaction when a steak hits a hot grill or pan. This reaction is what produces the caramelized outer crust of a fine steak, he explained.
In February, Simmons unveiled his Chef & Rancher beef, available online through the company’s website for direct shipping or local delivery in The Woodlands area. (Don’t be surprised if Simmons shows up at the front door with your steak order.) The brand became available at The Woodlands Farmer’s Market at Grogan’s Mill starting in May.
His passion for sharing his “hoof to fork” philosophy extends to instructing others. In the future, he envisions sharing the gospel of clean beef and “whole animal” cooking through an online course that teaches every cut of beef on multiple fuel sources.
The burning question from his fans (who are having withdrawals from his kimchee crab and wasabi-and-miso oysters) is whether a new restaurant will be in the works at some point.
“I’ve been in restaurants since I graduated high school. When, where, how, I’m not sure yet.”
Right now, he’s savoring the ability to spend time with his family. The kids are helping out with the business. His fiancée is coordinating his private events schedule. This kind of lifestyle was impossible with a chef’s schedule, he said.
You can sense a lot of freedom in Simmons’ voice, an openness to new possibilities, and an appreciation for the opportunities he’s been able to pursue. For now, this Texas boy is right where he wants to be. But Simmons leaves the door open: he won’t confirm or deny that a restaurant is imminent.
“Rumor is, I’m coming back soon,” he shared cryptically. “What I do serving people in a restaurant is and always has been where I feel most at home.”
A self-described “Texas boy” who loves to hunt and fish, Simmons seems at home on the range. He’s traded his white chef’s jacket for a cowboy hat and work boots without skipping a beat.