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Travel To Barbados

Writer and photographer Martha Hoelzer explores this mesmerizing island

As our plane soared over Barbados, brilliant jewel tones of turquoise, blue, and green shimmered below, blending seamlessly with the island’s golden beaches. A trip to the Caribbean is a must for the female traveler, promising to delight the senses. From surf breaks to serene, glassy waters, rugged east coast terrain to awe-inspiring reefs on the west, and lively events like horse racing, cricket, and yacht races, Barbados offers something for everyone.

Bridgetown, the capital settled in 1628 by English settlers, is a short ride from the airport. While en route to your destination, you may pass by quaint chattel houses, painted in vibrant hues, scattered across the island. Once designed for easy relocation as workers moved across the island to harvest sugar cane and other crops, many of these traditional homes have now found new life as permanent shops and restaurants.

Barbados is closely linked to the United States historically. The architecture, and colors of the homes around downtown Bridgetown inspired future residents of Charleston to build similar style buildings and to name streets after areas. George Washington visited with his step-brother, who was suffering from tuberculosis, and stayed at the Crofton House, now the George Washington House. Visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Garrison Tunnels, and enjoy a meal at the on-site cafe.

Beyond exploring historical sites, visitors can also discover Barbados as the birthplace of rum. Visit plantations St Nicholas Abbey (one of three Jacobean homes in the Western Hemisphere from 1658) or Mount Gay, which has been producing rum for over 300 years.

The people are as warm and friendly as the vibrancy of the surrounding landscape. Tourists, many from Britain and Canada return year after year building relationship with the locals and one another as their stays overlap. Returning for my second year, I was warmly welcomed by familiar faces—from the shop owners and the vendor who sold me coconuts and veggies to fellow travelers. Conversations flowed effortlessly, covering everything from escaping three feet of snow to adjusting to left-side driving and the joy of “letting go” that travel inspires.


After a few relaxing days on the white sands of Dover Beach and exploring the St. Lawrence Gap area—known for it’s diverse lodgings, restaurants and nightlife—we kicked off the trip with a Silver Moon catamaran tour. Aboard a luxurious catamaran with impeccable service and an intimate setting for just 12 guests, we cruised along the west coast, stopping twice to snorkel among turtles, stingrays, and schools of vibrant fish. Our guide lured them even closer by scattering breadcrumbs into the water, creating a mesmerizing underwater experience. Dinner, drinks and music enhanced our sunset cruise as we met new friends and exchanged stories as the sun dipped below the horizon.

Meeting new friends on these types of trips is easy as people let their guards down willing to embrace new things as they escape their lives back home. Our new friends encouraged us to meet them at Bikini Beach, on the west coast, for dinner one evening, where we watched in awe the roof awning rolled back to expose a starry sky above as we dined. They recommended Lickrish Food Tours, specifically the “Original Bajan Walking Food Tour” around Bridgetown.

A dinner in Speightstown at Local & Co. was the trip’s culinary highlight. Locally sourced food from farmers, foragers and fishers supports the local economy while creatively merging flavors together. Upon entering, a small store offers jewelry, clothing, soaps, lotions and other handmade items for sale. Just beyond, stone walls and an intimate bar set the backdrop to await your outside table. Whether dining by the beachside as the sun sets or elevated on the deck beneath woven lamp shades and a majestic tree, Local & Co. is a magical atmosphere with stunning views of the sea. Definitely keep an eye out for local specials, but the crudo sampler, which features the coconut ceviche, a fusion of creamy coconut, zesty lime and chili had me longing to sip the leftover juices. I restrained, but enjoyed dipping some breadfruit to capture as much as possible.

Not far from Speightstown along the northern part of the island, Animal Flower Cave offers incredible views of Atlantic waves crashing into the cliffs below as you eat lunch. The breadfruit tacos are beyond delicious and not to miss. Depending on the day and the height of the waves, tour the cave to see the natural rock pools and the flowers that open up beneath the water surface. Definitely bring a swim suit and a pair of shoes that can handle wet and rugged terrain.

When looking for a beach to explore, there are many to experience from the colorful iconic pink umbrellas of luxurious Sandy Lane that overlook the calm waters of the west coast, to nearby Folkstone Marine Park, where you can lounge, swim and experience some of the best snorkeling on the island along a protected reef. Stroll down the boardwalk or enjoy fish cakes from the nearby food concession to enjoy the day. 

Close to Bridgetown, crescent shaped Carlisle Bay provides a natural harbor for swimming or snorkeling with boats dotting the water and sunbathers line the shore. Pebbles Beach overlooks Carlisle Bay with some waves and most mornings the race horses are taken by their grooms to bathe in the water. Around the corner, the south coast offers surf breaks at Drill Hall or Freights. Talk to the local surfers to understand how the culture works for exchanging turns, etc. For a break from the beaches, take a walk or practice yoga on the Richard Haynes Boardwalk. Then, stop by Artsplash Cafe for excellent coffee, breakfast, or lunch, and explore its outdoor farmers market and art gallery showcasing local artists.

On the rugged east coast near Bathsheba, the Atlantic waves pound the shores of Soup Bowl and Parlour, making them prime spots for watching pro surfers in the winter months or taking a peaceful stroll through this laid-back region. When visiting the east coast near Bathsheba, be sure to visit P.E.G. Farm for a tour and enjoy the cafe overlooking the fields. Wherever you go, stay or visit, this small hospitable island will make you feel incredibly welcome and at home.

Other recommendations:

Cocktail Kitchen - creative cooking with delightful drinks - seasoned popcorn served with drinks. Try the shrimp ceviche, the tuna carpaccio and the breadfruit nachos as mouthwatering items to share.

Tapas - the seared tuna is amazing!

Lisa’s Roti’s and Doubles - a roadside stall that sells delicious street food.