As temperatures begin to cool, many of us trade bright and whimsical summer outfits for styles that are a little more restrained. Restrained, however, doesn’t have to mean boring, and fall offers us one of the greatest opportunities we have all year for intentional timeless elegance. Frederick’s most notable fashion superstar, Claire McCardell, is actually one of the best places we can look for fall style inspiration. Whether on a runway today or last century, her creations endure and have stood the test of time.
Who Is Claire McCardell?
If the name sounds unfamiliar to you, no worries – you’re not alone. Despite the fact that she revolutionized women’s fashion in the mid-20th century, her recognition as a fashion designer has largely slipped under the radar. My theory as to why this is the case is because of McCardell’s personality – certainly creative, innovative, and daring, but also quiet, humble, and continually rooted with her Frederick family rather than seeking attention among the jetset scene.
McCardell was born in Frederick in 1905, and while her family was close, she knew early on that her creative ambitions would lead her farther afield. She left for New York to study fashion design at Parsons, traveling to Paris as part of her studies, and then returned to NYC to seek work as a designer, rare for a young single woman at the time. It wasn’t an easy road, but by the time she was 27, she held the chief designer position at Townley Frocks (another rarity for a young woman in the 1930’s). Her simple and practical fashions proceeded to take the world by storm, setting a new standard for the freedom of movement active women could enjoy in their lives.
During WWII, when rationing ground European couture to a halt, American retailers stopped looking overseas to dictate the next season’s fashions and instead began to embrace designers at home. McCardell became one of a handful of designers responsible for pioneering “The American Look:” a carefree, simple, elegant way of dressing that emphasized American women’s love of the outdoors and increasingly independent lives. She was also the first American designer to publish her name on her clothing label, a privilege she fought for as lead designer at Townley Frocks. Beginning in 1940, her designs all carried the label, “Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley,” and pieces that have survived under her name are highly prized by collectors today.
Along Carroll Creek, you may have seen the bronze statue that the Frederick Art Club commissioned to honor McCardell, with an unveiling in 2021. Easily one of the most successful businesswomen to call Frederick home, the statue honors not only her contribution to women’s empowerment but her popularization of style staples we couldn’t live without today.
Fall Claire McCardell Style
McCardell’s designs were marked by some signature elements that translate really well to a fall wardrobe:
Stripes & Plaids
McCardell absolutely loved patterns with plaids and stripes, and she was most famous for cutting outfits so that stripe patterns would align at sharp geometric angles (“mitered stripes”). Plaid is a gentle way to tease the holiday season, and stripe patterns especially with an interesting cut can help lengthen and define the shape of the body.
Wraps & Ties
Before Diane von Furstenberg, Claire McCardell loved a good wrap dress. A simple, long-sleeve wrap dress is an excellent addition to any fall wardrobe. McCardell was famous for dresses with string ties that were otherwise simply draped and played into the “Greek goddess” look.
Dolman Sleeve
Part of McCardell’s commitment to practical clothing was making sure that women could move their arms! A dolman sleeve is a relaxed style where the sleeve and bodice are cut as one piece so there are no shoulder seams (creating a signature slouchy look). Today, dolman sleeves tend to show up on comfy fall sweaters. They’re great on an oversized piece that you can pair with tighter jeans or leggings for contrast and style.
Ballet Flats
Yes, that’s right – Claire McCardell is responsible for the invention of the “ballet flat.” The shoe came out of wartime leather rationing and a collaboration with ballet brand Capezio. Ballet flats are the perfect addition to a fall outfit because they bridge our open-toe sandals and heavier boots. Add some tights when it gets chillier and they still look on-point with a skirt or dress.
Claire in Frederick Today
The Carroll Creek statue was a great place to start acknowledging McCardell’s legacy at home, and the celebration continues with these exciting Frederick projects:
Frederick Fashion Week
Bianca Margolis, owner and stylist behind Frederick Fashion Boutique, launched the annual Frederick Fashion Week event in spring 2026. The event builds on McCardell’s legacy and spotlights Frederick’s thriving community of designers and creators. To learn more or get involved, visit frederickfashionboutique.com.
Claire McCardell Biopic
Big Blue Foundation, the local social impact film nonprofit behind the recent Boomtown docudrama, is developing a biopic based on McCardell’s life, projected to begin filming in spring 2027. The Foundation is seeking production partners and investors as research and story development continues. To learn more or get in touch, visit bigblue.foundation or write to Rhonda McLaughlin at rhonda@bigpicturemedia.tv.
Claire McCardell revolutionized women's fashion by proving practicality and elegance could go hand in hand.
McCardell became one of a handful of designers responsible for pioneering “The American Look:” a carefree, simple, elegant way of dressing that emphasized American women’s love of the outdoors and increasingly independent lives.