Growing up in the 1980s and ’90s, dining in Detroit was rare for us. Occasionally, we ventured to Greektown or celebrated a birthday at Carl’s Chop House. My parents would take us Downtown to catch a performance at the Fisher Theatre, but we never ate there. Our pre-show meals were almost always at Howard Johnson’s in Southfield, a quick and convenient stop along the way.
Back then, I loved the fried clams at this now-shuttered restaurant. My culinary preferences have certainly evolved, and while I dislike the term “foodie,” it accurately describes my adult palate.
With the recent and rapid expansion of Detroit’s culinary scene, I have since made it a goal to visit the city’s newest and most celebrated restaurants. It’s exciting to see Detroit boast James Beard-nominated restaurants and chefs, and earn accolades in national publications. Last year, Conde Nast Traveler named Detroit one of its “Best Food Cities in the US.”
A few of my favorite popular Detroit eateries are Marrow, Adelina, Grey Ghost Detroit, Le Supreme and Ottava Via. But lately, my focus has shifted. Instead of chasing down reservations at the hottest spots, I’ve been seeking out the city’s hidden gems.
The best way to find these under-the-radar treasures is to ask people who live and work in the city. This led me to a handful of places I consider essential Detroit dining. They aren’t flashy. In fact, my top three all share a common theme: they are longstanding, no-frills establishments serving excellent food at affordable prices. My only caveat is that you won’t find anything healthy on the menu. Still, it’s worth the caloric splurge.
1 Evie’s Tamales 3454 Bagley Street, Detroit, MI. Evie’s has all the traditional items you’d expect at a Mexican restaurant. But, the tamales, wrapped in corn husks and packed with flavor, stand out for their authentic taste, variety, and freshness.
During my last visit, I chatted with the owner, Eugene Cooley, who shared the history of the 44-year-old restaurant. His grandmother, Evelyn, started Evie’s in Mexican Town before passing it down to his mother, who eventually turned it over to him.
Cooley’s pride in the restaurant and love of his work are apparent, and so is his connection to the community. His customers include early-morning patrons, mostly day laborers, coming in for a hearty breakfast beginning at 4 a.m. Other regulars include police, firefighters and border-patrol officers.
The staff is friendly, the décor is simple, the prices are low — and the tamales are off-the-chart amazing.
2 Duly’s Place Coney Island. 5458 Vernor Hwy, Detroit, MI. Forget the longstanding Lafayette Coney Island vs. American Coney Island debate over who has the better coney. Duly’s is my pick for the best coney dog in Detroit.
There’s nothing fancy about this 24-hour, cash-only establishment. Walking through the doors of Duly’s feels like a trip back in time. Founded in 1921 by Greek immigrant George Dulyakis, this narrow diner is dominated by a long counter lined with worn swivel stools. Strangers sit elbow-to-elbow, often striking up conversation while waiting for their food.
The decades-old menu board, fixed to the wall, lists diner staples such as sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, chili, fries, wings, cheese sticks and an all-day breakfast menu at affordable prices.
Our coney dogs arrived quickly, nestled in warm, fresh buns and topped with perfectly spiced chili, chopped onions and yellow mustard. The best way to describe a Duly’s coney: cheap, simple and delicious.
3 Scotty Simpson’s Fish & Chips. 22200 Fenkell Ave, Detroit, MI. Let me start off by saying fish and chips never piqued my interest until I ended up at Scotty Simpson’s on a restaurant tour.
This 75-year-old cash-only Detroit institution is known for its fish and chips, and one bite of the lightly battered cod will likely keep you coming back. The accompanying coleslaw and fries are average, but the combination of the fish, fries, slaw and, of course, tartar sauce, creates the perfect combination of comfort food. In addition to offering traditional American fare, Yelp and Trip Advisor list Soctty’s as the number-one place to go for frog legs.
Like Evie’s and Duly’s, Scotty Simpson’s screams old-fashioned charm. The wood-paneled walls are covered in photos, maritime memorabilia and mounted fish. The carpet, wood, vinyl chairs and unassuming tables are a throwback in time, adding to the old-school vibe. It’s another classic case of “never judge a book by its cover.”