Chef Jake Howell, co-owner of the Peninsula Restaurant Nashville, was this year's recipient of the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast.
He mentioned that he began cooking as a job in his teens. "For some reason, this job found me, and along the way, what it meant to me changed; now it's who I am. When I look back at other options, I don't think I should have been anything else. Development of ideas is the fun part," he shares, "When there is a grind to get something to work and you finally figure it out, it's the best feeling in the world. That's when you know, you're doing what you're meant to."
Chef reveals, "I look up to a lot of people close to me—my parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles. I watched so many of them create something worthwhile in this world. I'm inspired to try and do the same."
With a rapid increase in dining at Peninsula since receiving the award, there has been less time to decompress. Jake has had to put a significant emphasis on recharging whenever opportunity allows. A hike, walking the dog, dinner with his wife, or friends makes him the happiest and helps restore balance. He notes, "enjoying the simple moments in life is key, and I've also found that long walks allow for new ideas to flow."
A flurry of media attention that followed the last James Beard award win in Nashville in 2016 was seemingly connected to the surging popularity of the restaurant scene by 2017.
It was then that Seattle-based friends Yuriko Say, Craig Schoen, and Jake Howell had the foresight to get in on the ground floor of an emerging market with the opening of Peninsula, a jointly designed, intentionally intimate 38-seat space with floor-to-ceiling windows, serving modern Spanish and French fusion cuisine in East Nashville.
Jake's self-made moniker, "what would Jake do," could have many connotations, but the intention is to understand that what Jake wants to do is to give diners the best possible experience.
One encounter reveals the limitless bounds of creativity expressed, whether through the story told in his extensive body ink, an explanation of a dish, or his branded image as a visual artist longing to raise a brush to a canvas. Jake exudes an aura of inventiveness, artistry, and inspiration that develops into transformative dishes for us to experience.
Standard sustainability practices include minimizing food waste, reducing wastewater, and using responsibly sourced proteins. Explaining why the menu is brief, but offers uniquely tantalizing flavor and ingredient combinations.
Octopus can be difficult for most to prepare, but Jake delivers a new and tasty concept each time with ease. Why not try the Hokkaido Scallop, adorned with edible Nasturtium, balanced with a golden berry that is both sweet and tart; each delicate taste provides a pleasant mouthfeel, for $23? Consider tasting the $12 Beet, Roasted Garlic, and Habanero appetizer, where flavors that aren't shy individually come together to play with your palate, leaving a lasting impact.
With the Michelin Guide's newly announced inclusion of Nashville for consideration, when asked if a Michelin Star was something that he'd consciously pursue, Jake candidly replied, "It's important to know why you do what you do. I cook because I love it."
Though his trophy still sits atop his bedroom bureau, as a reminder of a job exceptionally well done, Chef Jake is humble and unaffected by the new notoriety, sharing, "It's really such an honor when someone chooses to dine in your restaurant. I really hope we get the chance to cook for y'all."
Follow Peninsula's social media for upcoming information on their new bar, Charmers, in the Neuhoff development this fall.
It's important to know why you do what you do. I cook because I love it.