Antiguo Lobo delivers heritage-inspired Mexican dishes in a space that meshes old-world furnishings, neon lights, and upbeat music for an unparalleled experience. Owner Jesús Oñate Jr. isn’t a formally trained chef; instead, his expertise is experientially based, developed through a childhood spent in the Chamblee restaurant industry, resulting in a soulful, ancestrally inspired menu.
Jesús recalls his grandmother’s cooking with deep fondness, honing in on how she made “the simplest things phenomenal." It was always an experience. It’s what he misses most every time he visits Mexico, and he's creating something special out of those memories at Antiguo Lobo.
By sourcing products locally and from Mexico when possible, a level of authenticity that is difficult to find at similar establishments is present here. The dishes and drinks draw upon the team’s deep-rooted connection to Mexico, which they maintain with frequent travels there - most recently an inspirational trip to Guanajuato.
One of their most popular dishes is the molcajete el monstruo, which is an epic shareable dish overflowing with protein (steak, grilled chicken, chorizo, grilled shrimp, and grilled queso fresco), vegetables (green onion, tomato, nopal cactus), classic Mexican accoutrements (rice and refried black beans) and a tomatillo cream salsa that's made in-house daily. It all arrives in a piping hot volcanic mortar, and each time it dramatically exits the kitchen, ensconced in billowing smoke, everyone in the restaurant turns their head and quickly orders one for the table.
The vegan chorizo is a unique and much-loved offering, provided by a friend of the restaurant, Chef Abraham Gutierrez. The burritos and enchiladas verdes also fly out of the kitchen highlighting how even the most straightforward recipes are elevated to a high standard of excellence here.
Jesús (originally from the Agave country) has found that appreciation for artisanal, handcrafted processes is on the rise. Something made by hand, passed on from generation to generation, and separate from industrialization, is revered. Enter: the surge in mezcal’s popularity. What’s unique about mezcal is that it can be made from any species of agave, grown in different areas on varying timelines, resulting in a huge range of flavor profiles and alcohol-by-volume levels. Jesús loves to sip on mezcal (alongside a plate of carne asada) as a way to appreciate its many intricacies. “Besitos al mezcal” translates to “kissing the mezcal” and alludes to the gesture of taking small, delicate sips instead of shots. Jesús says, “Some Maestros Mezcaleros even say 'El mezcal no se toma… se besa’ ('You don’t drink mezcal… you kiss it’).”
For those looking for cocktails, mezcal pairs beautifully with a wide variety of fruits, and the El Melvin is an excellent choice. This cocktail features a house-made hibiscus-chile ancho syrup alongside mezcal, lime, orange, agave, and a Tajin rim. Their Palumba is essentially a frozen paloma, wildly popular and perfect for hot Georgia days. Every drink is made with 100% blue agave and fresh lime juice, prepared on the spot. Mocktails and draft beer are also available, and Antiguo Lobo strives to incorporate local products whenever they can.
The vibe is buoyant, high-energy, and above all else: fun. As evening falls, the music is turned up and the lights dim, making the neon accents pop, and in the words of Jesús, “there’s never a dull moment.” It’s an environment where people of all ages and backgrounds come to enjoy themselves.
Opened during the pandemic to a rocky start with limited hours, it quickly rose in popularity as patrons were seeking in-person joy and connection. Today, they are fully staffed and almost always slammed, filled with appreciation for the people of Chamblee.
Jesús envisions expanding their event calendar, with an eye on crafting more specialty events, such as a phenomenal chef or bartender demonstrating their expertise with samples. For an intimate experience, they currently host tequila and mezcal dinners every few weeks, typically taking place on a Wednesday night. These events gather sixteen to twenty people in a beautifully decorated corner of the restaurant, where a brand representative leads everyone through four one-ounce expressions of their liquor, and small plates arrive between each tasting.
Jesús is determined to provide a place with exceptional food and drinks that gives people something to look forward to. With a childhood where food was a means to make a living and a love language, his pure delight in a well-made meal sets him apart, as he assures me, “I fall in love with food every time I eat.”
“I fall in love with food every time I eat.”
You don’t drink mezcal… you kiss it.